Floating down the Nile

Written Sat 19th. I was on such a high... A dream come true. Was I really here? Past Luxor we move, and are quickly away from the city. On the starboard, there are houses high above the river (because of the great floods that used to take place before the Aswan High Dam was built.) Low islands in the river are tilled wherever possible. Other boats toot from time to time. Sometimes we pass one; sometimes one passes us. The toots seem to say, "I'm faster than you!"

A soft breeze is blowing; no sound but the quiet thrum of the engine. The sky is clearer than it's been since we arrived in Egypt. I wondered whether yesterday's lovely breeze has blown the pollution away. I'm lying on a sun lounger on the top deck and nearly falling asleep. The 3 pm prayer call echoes across the water. Ahead I can see 11 boats and behind, 13. Ours is the 'MS Sherryboat'. Other names are Cheops III, Seiramis I, Beau Soleil, Esadora.

As darkness fell, I was down in our cabin. There was a shout outside the window. Two men in a small rowboat. "My lady. Burka." With that they hurled a plastic bag in the window of the cabin, containing a beautiful long red burka with gold thread embroidery. Before I can open in, a black one follows, just chucked, not in a bag, and they are unfolding a white one. I bung the first two back in the bag and hurl them back. "Laa!" (No). I slam the window shut and shut the curtains but they continue to call until I switch out the light. Now that couldn't happen in kiwiland!

Out of time now; we're off to El Alamein in ten minutes. I'll hope to find an Internet cafe in Alexandria where we spend the next two nights.