31 Jan. Left for Wadi Rum at 12 noon, driving along the tops of hills in fog. We were on the road which leads to Akaba on the Red Sea, the only port in Jordan, so it wasn't surprising to see lots of huge trucks. Had a short hold up because a truck/trailer unit had jack-knifed further ahead. The police had it well in hand; they were letting cars and vans through but the big rigs had to wait.
When we arrived at Wadi Rum, we swapped from our van to two four-wheel drives. The drivers wore long robes and had the customary local red and white checked head-dress with two black cords around it. Our first sight was the Seven Pillars of Wisdom, a formation named in honour of T E Lawrence who helped lead the Arab revolt during World War I. It's a tall rocky mass that looks a bit like pillars.
The area is sometimes called the Mountains of the Moon. A wadi is a valley, but this huge area (1000 sq km I think) is more like a wide plain with great mountainous formations rearing up out of it, with rounded tops and stripes of different colours all the way down. Great lumps of stone are piled at the bottom of many of them, and there is sand, sand, and more sand in every shade you can imagine from cream to orange to brown.
As soon as we passed the Bedouin village, we left the sealed road and drove on the sand. It was amazing, stupendous, breath-taking! Just a pity that the sun wasn't out at first - we were so lucky yesterday to have sun at Petra. A few people were out there on camels, which really added to the atmosphere. Eventually there was some sun which really brought out the orange and pink colours of the sand. Bedouins in a tent offered commercial hospitality - drinks of tea. They were based near a narrow canyon - really just a split in the rocks.
There was quite a lot of growth; scrubby green bushes, leafless small trees (well, it is winter) and small plants with a foothold in the sand. The book I bought says that spring flowers burst out at the first sign of water.
At times, when you looked into the distance, you would have sworn there was sea water, because of the ripples in the sand, but it was just a paler colour. We saw some graffitti - a drawing of a camel and some Greek writing. Then the sun broke through as it was heading down the sky about 4 pm and that made for great photos.
Yet another fantastic day on the most fantastic trip of my life!
Monday, 1 February 2010
Sunday, 31 January 2010
Jordan Day 4. Petra at last
30 Jan. So now I have seen Petra! WOW! It lived up to all my expectations and more! We were at the gate at 8.20 and started down the Sik (the road through the rocks)with our guide. The tops of the great rock formations were gleaming pink in the sun. The guide pointed out features like the water channel that runs all the way down, a formation in the shape of an elephant's head, the remains of a man's legs, with the feet of two camels behind him.
As we went round the bends (just wide enough for horses and small carriages, the anticipation and expectation rose. Will it be round the next corner? We knew it was 1.2 km down, and finally there it was, the keyhole view of the Treasury that is so famous. It is heavily Egyptian, and the front is greatly eroded when you look at drawings of it done in about 1840 by David Roberts. But of course The Treasury was just the first of so many fantastic sights.
We walked on through the rocks and came to open ground. As the area widened out, we could see that all along the sides there are caves in the rocks. They tower above the valley. Bedouin tribes used to live in the caves but the government resettled them in houses in the 1970's. However, eight families still live there.
High up on the rocks to the right are the royal tombs. These consist of enormous rooms cut into the rocks, with the outside cut to look like buildings. These structures are amazing!
Below the royal tombs, are normal sized ones for ordinary people. All around are great outcrops of rocks in layers of dull red, pale blue and grey swirls - I have never seen anything like it. We came across the son of the NZ woman who wrote the book 'Married to a Bedouin.' He had two stalls selling her book and jewellery the two of them had made. She had been living in Sydney until recently, but has moved back to Jordan because her three children live there.
On and on to the Roman city, with remains of huge temples, a gigantic altar and the market place. Easy walking on the grand paved street through the middle. Our guided tour ended at the start of the path to the Monastery. It was 10.30 and we had been walking for two hours - that perhaps gives some idea of the immensity of the site! We had a drink and then -
Off to the monastery. They say there are 850 steps, but in fact much of it is going up easy rocks; the steps are only there when the natural rock would have been too steep or rough to walk up. One of our group went on a donkey but the other six intrepids decided to walk. The rock formations are out of this world; something like the Grand Canyon in the US of A; probably even more spectacular as there are so many different colours and shapes. All this area looks thrust up rather than eroded.
Finally we came to the top and there was the monastery. It appears to be only a facade, with one large room cut into the hill. Goats with kids were running around and there was a goat herder keeping an eye on them. Onions were planted all over the area in the sand; thick sea green leaves sticking up. We have seen them for sale in the markets.
Needed a bit more time at the top really, but it was best to keep with the group. So we retraced our tracks; down from the monastery, back past the Roman town. I went up on the left hillside to look into the huge royal tombs and we walked and walked and walked. Finally arrived at our hotel at 4 pm. We calculated that we had walked at least 8 km. What a day! A day to remember for the rest of my life!
As we went round the bends (just wide enough for horses and small carriages, the anticipation and expectation rose. Will it be round the next corner? We knew it was 1.2 km down, and finally there it was, the keyhole view of the Treasury that is so famous. It is heavily Egyptian, and the front is greatly eroded when you look at drawings of it done in about 1840 by David Roberts. But of course The Treasury was just the first of so many fantastic sights.
We walked on through the rocks and came to open ground. As the area widened out, we could see that all along the sides there are caves in the rocks. They tower above the valley. Bedouin tribes used to live in the caves but the government resettled them in houses in the 1970's. However, eight families still live there.
High up on the rocks to the right are the royal tombs. These consist of enormous rooms cut into the rocks, with the outside cut to look like buildings. These structures are amazing!
Below the royal tombs, are normal sized ones for ordinary people. All around are great outcrops of rocks in layers of dull red, pale blue and grey swirls - I have never seen anything like it. We came across the son of the NZ woman who wrote the book 'Married to a Bedouin.' He had two stalls selling her book and jewellery the two of them had made. She had been living in Sydney until recently, but has moved back to Jordan because her three children live there.
On and on to the Roman city, with remains of huge temples, a gigantic altar and the market place. Easy walking on the grand paved street through the middle. Our guided tour ended at the start of the path to the Monastery. It was 10.30 and we had been walking for two hours - that perhaps gives some idea of the immensity of the site! We had a drink and then -
Off to the monastery. They say there are 850 steps, but in fact much of it is going up easy rocks; the steps are only there when the natural rock would have been too steep or rough to walk up. One of our group went on a donkey but the other six intrepids decided to walk. The rock formations are out of this world; something like the Grand Canyon in the US of A; probably even more spectacular as there are so many different colours and shapes. All this area looks thrust up rather than eroded.
Finally we came to the top and there was the monastery. It appears to be only a facade, with one large room cut into the hill. Goats with kids were running around and there was a goat herder keeping an eye on them. Onions were planted all over the area in the sand; thick sea green leaves sticking up. We have seen them for sale in the markets.
Needed a bit more time at the top really, but it was best to keep with the group. So we retraced our tracks; down from the monastery, back past the Roman town. I went up on the left hillside to look into the huge royal tombs and we walked and walked and walked. Finally arrived at our hotel at 4 pm. We calculated that we had walked at least 8 km. What a day! A day to remember for the rest of my life!
Jordan Day 3. Churches and Karak Castle
On Friday 29th we set off at 8 am to Madaba. Friday is the Moslem holy day, and the first day of their weekend. First Ibrahim drove us through the area where the embassies are. As you approach one, there's a sign, 'No Photos'. Security is very tight. There were four utes with machine guns mounted on top, plus a large number of armed men in grey with army helmets and big guns at their waists. Can you guess which nation's embassy it is!
We drove out of town at 1100m above sea level. The road goes down to 1470m below. At Madaba we looked at three old churches with great mosaics, if only somebody would clean them. The most famous is the map of the Middle East on the floor of the Greek Orthodox Church.
Kerak Castle came after that. I was so excited to visit this Crusader Castle which I knew about from my history studies. It is high on a hill, rearing up above the town as you approach, and three times as high above the fertile fields on the other side. Sandie and I didn't want any lunch, so we dashed all over the place together. You would think that no one could possibly have got in. There's a story about an assault on it. The assaulter was told that a wedding was going on. He asked where this was taking place, and redirected his bombardment to other areas.
Four 14 year old girls chatted to me and I took their photo in their pretty coloured scarves.
We drove out of town at 1100m above sea level. The road goes down to 1470m below. At Madaba we looked at three old churches with great mosaics, if only somebody would clean them. The most famous is the map of the Middle East on the floor of the Greek Orthodox Church.
Kerak Castle came after that. I was so excited to visit this Crusader Castle which I knew about from my history studies. It is high on a hill, rearing up above the town as you approach, and three times as high above the fertile fields on the other side. Sandie and I didn't want any lunch, so we dashed all over the place together. You would think that no one could possibly have got in. There's a story about an assault on it. The assaulter was told that a wedding was going on. He asked where this was taking place, and redirected his bombardment to other areas.
Four 14 year old girls chatted to me and I took their photo in their pretty coloured scarves.
Jordan Day 2
Thursday 28 Jan
We left at 7.35 am, heading north to Um Qais. Had an hour there. A wonderful, junky old ruin, that has not been developed as a tourist site. It was Greek, then Roman. Up above is a Moslem village, now overgrown with weeds. There's a theatre, a main street that stretches for 2 km, ruined temples. Only four other people there. Because it's the off season, there are very few tourists, relatively speaking.
It's great to do things early in the day. I found a lone red anemone and pinned it on my jacket. Ibrahim said that the area would be covered with them in a month.
It's a beautiful day. We can't believe how warm it is and neither can Ibrahim. This is supposed to be winter, but the cold snap disappeared just before we arrived.
Next visit was Ajloun Castle, a massive fortress with a great 'fosse' (ditch) around it. Think 30m deep and 15m wide. I was sure it would be impregnable.
The highlight of the day - in fact it took the rest of the day - was Jerash (with the emphasis on the 'Jer'). This is the best Roman ruin/excavation I have ever seen. We started at 2.15 with the Roman show. James would have enjoyed it.
First a very small legion of about 20 men marched onto the hippodrome. They demonstrated their weapons. The pila is the throwing javelin made of steel and wood. Use that for poking holes in your enemy or his horse. The scuta is the shield. Bash your enemy with the knob on the front, or thrust the top of the shield up under his chin. The way they fought was: they lined up in nines. The front nine fought for 8 minutes then withdrew to the back (if they hadn't been killed or severely wounded). Thus there were always fresh soldiers coming forward. They showed us a formation with shields in front of them and the famous testudo (tortoise) with the shields in front and over their heads.
Then the gladiators came out and fought. We had to put thumbs up if we wanted the vanquished one to live, and thumbs sideways if we wanted him to die. NB: not thumbs down - they said that was incorrect. After that three chariots had a race round the hippodrome.
We spent an hour and a half walking around the site. It is huge, with massive temples, a great oval market place, three theatres. And only one third of it has been excavated. After a huge earthquake in 749, the people abandoned the city and built Baghdad, which was completed in 756. Debri blew in for almost 1300 years. Excavation began in the 1920's. It is amazing!!!!!
We left at 7.35 am, heading north to Um Qais. Had an hour there. A wonderful, junky old ruin, that has not been developed as a tourist site. It was Greek, then Roman. Up above is a Moslem village, now overgrown with weeds. There's a theatre, a main street that stretches for 2 km, ruined temples. Only four other people there. Because it's the off season, there are very few tourists, relatively speaking.
It's great to do things early in the day. I found a lone red anemone and pinned it on my jacket. Ibrahim said that the area would be covered with them in a month.
It's a beautiful day. We can't believe how warm it is and neither can Ibrahim. This is supposed to be winter, but the cold snap disappeared just before we arrived.
Next visit was Ajloun Castle, a massive fortress with a great 'fosse' (ditch) around it. Think 30m deep and 15m wide. I was sure it would be impregnable.
The highlight of the day - in fact it took the rest of the day - was Jerash (with the emphasis on the 'Jer'). This is the best Roman ruin/excavation I have ever seen. We started at 2.15 with the Roman show. James would have enjoyed it.
First a very small legion of about 20 men marched onto the hippodrome. They demonstrated their weapons. The pila is the throwing javelin made of steel and wood. Use that for poking holes in your enemy or his horse. The scuta is the shield. Bash your enemy with the knob on the front, or thrust the top of the shield up under his chin. The way they fought was: they lined up in nines. The front nine fought for 8 minutes then withdrew to the back (if they hadn't been killed or severely wounded). Thus there were always fresh soldiers coming forward. They showed us a formation with shields in front of them and the famous testudo (tortoise) with the shields in front and over their heads.
Then the gladiators came out and fought. We had to put thumbs up if we wanted the vanquished one to live, and thumbs sideways if we wanted him to die. NB: not thumbs down - they said that was incorrect. After that three chariots had a race round the hippodrome.
We spent an hour and a half walking around the site. It is huge, with massive temples, a great oval market place, three theatres. And only one third of it has been excavated. After a huge earthquake in 749, the people abandoned the city and built Baghdad, which was completed in 756. Debri blew in for almost 1300 years. Excavation began in the 1920's. It is amazing!!!!!
Jordan Day 1
It was so sad to be leaving Egypt on 27th Jan. It's been even more wonderful than Russia. We left Cairo at 11.15 and flew over a desert area laid out with streets. Lots of empty sections, but houses in between with green lawns and swimming pools. It looked like a new subdivision.
The flight evened out at 17,000 feet, so the landscape was quite clear. It's exciting to fly over features you recognise - first the Red Sea, then desert, some quite rocky, with areas where the sand between the hills looked like rivers. The flight only took an hour and a quarter. When we entered the airport, there was Raed, the JD Tours rep, with an orange sign with my name on it as arranged. He took the passports and got the visa stamp for us. When he came back, he told us with a serious face, "I'm very sorry to have to tell you that Petra is shut for one month for maintenance." My rational brain said this couldn't be; my emotional brain almost blew a gasket! Then we saw the grin on his face.
Outside the airport, we set off on the drive to the city with our driver Ibrahim. Amman is called 'the white city' because all the houses are made of creamy white limestone blocks; no colour is allowed. It's very clean; we saw men picking up rubbish in the street. The population is 6 million, of whom 2 million live in Amman. Ibrahim says he knows 1 million of them. His family has 40,000 members. We think he means there are 40,000 people with the same surname.
We went to JD Tours to pay for our tour; it was great to meet Jasmine who had been my email contact; a beautiful Jordanian who had got married just before Christmas and was all smiles when we wished her well.
Off to the Citadel on the hill. It has been there since ancient times, but was particularly developed by the Romans. There's a bronze age cave on the way up among the Roman ruins! Inside the museum at the top, I was blown away! They have items dating back to 8000 BC, which is the early Neolithic period. But the most exciting thing was some pieces of the Dead Sea Scrolls. They are dark green and came from Qumran, on the northwest of the Dead Sea, where they were found just a few km from the shoreline.
As the sun was sinking in the sky, there were fabulous photo opportunities, with houses and rows of flags gleaming in the sun. The Jordanians are very proud of what they have achieved with their tiny country. Ibrahim says it only takes 4.5 hours to drive from north to south; if that is correct, considering that the speed limit is 80 kph, it must be about as far as from Taupo to Wellington.
The flight evened out at 17,000 feet, so the landscape was quite clear. It's exciting to fly over features you recognise - first the Red Sea, then desert, some quite rocky, with areas where the sand between the hills looked like rivers. The flight only took an hour and a quarter. When we entered the airport, there was Raed, the JD Tours rep, with an orange sign with my name on it as arranged. He took the passports and got the visa stamp for us. When he came back, he told us with a serious face, "I'm very sorry to have to tell you that Petra is shut for one month for maintenance." My rational brain said this couldn't be; my emotional brain almost blew a gasket! Then we saw the grin on his face.
Outside the airport, we set off on the drive to the city with our driver Ibrahim. Amman is called 'the white city' because all the houses are made of creamy white limestone blocks; no colour is allowed. It's very clean; we saw men picking up rubbish in the street. The population is 6 million, of whom 2 million live in Amman. Ibrahim says he knows 1 million of them. His family has 40,000 members. We think he means there are 40,000 people with the same surname.
We went to JD Tours to pay for our tour; it was great to meet Jasmine who had been my email contact; a beautiful Jordanian who had got married just before Christmas and was all smiles when we wished her well.
Off to the Citadel on the hill. It has been there since ancient times, but was particularly developed by the Romans. There's a bronze age cave on the way up among the Roman ruins! Inside the museum at the top, I was blown away! They have items dating back to 8000 BC, which is the early Neolithic period. But the most exciting thing was some pieces of the Dead Sea Scrolls. They are dark green and came from Qumran, on the northwest of the Dead Sea, where they were found just a few km from the shoreline.
As the sun was sinking in the sky, there were fabulous photo opportunities, with houses and rows of flags gleaming in the sun. The Jordanians are very proud of what they have achieved with their tiny country. Ibrahim says it only takes 4.5 hours to drive from north to south; if that is correct, considering that the speed limit is 80 kph, it must be about as far as from Taupo to Wellington.
Wednesday, 27 January 2010
Back to Cairo
Written 26 Jan. Yesterday, 25 Jan, we drove back to Cairo. So at last I have access to Internet and have finally caught up. Tomorrow morning 8 of us head for Jordan, seven in my group, and the rest go off in various directions. I think 16 of the 30 are actually going home to NZ.
I'll try to blog from Jordan. This mammoth effort has taken me two hours and 2 minutes. Just for interest, the cafe I've found near the museum - a two hour walk from our hotel - charges 5 pounds an hour. The hotel charges 89!
NB. I didn't walk this far just for the Internet; it was great to cross the island in the river and see the Cairo Tower up close.
I'll try to blog from Jordan. This mammoth effort has taken me two hours and 2 minutes. Just for interest, the cafe I've found near the museum - a two hour walk from our hotel - charges 5 pounds an hour. The hotel charges 89!
NB. I didn't walk this far just for the Internet; it was great to cross the island in the river and see the Cairo Tower up close.
Alexandria
Written 26 Jan. 24 Jan was our day to see the sights of Alex. We went to the catacombs, which date from the 2nd century AD. Down a 91 step spiral staircase, to see the holes hewn in the rock where the mummies were stored. There are two floors below, but they are under water. Nobody has spent any money on this site. No postcards, no photos allowed. Art in the tombs is a curious mixture of Egyptian and Roman.
Next to see Pompey's Pillar. Lots of junky ruins around it. Third stop at a very nice Roman Theatre in good condition. John marched into the middle and began the "Friends, Romans, Countrymen, lend me your ears" speech from Shakespeare's Julius Caesar. When he ran out, couple of us helped him remember the next lines. They have also dug out baths, but we couldn't visit, because they are still working on the site.
On the way back to the hotel, four of us got off the bus at the sea and set out to go to the Citadel, which is out on the point, built where the Pharos lighthouse stood. We walked for 35 minutes, then found a cafe for lunch. We waited for it for 35 minutes, but enjoyed our sit down. On we went and there were two beautiful mosques, with elegant lacework in the stone.
By now it was raining hard so we jumped in a taxi and went to the citadel, which is called Fort Qaitbey. Built 1477 with an enormous keep with walls 2m thick. Lovely cream/brownish stone. A wall around it was built much later. My 2 gig camera card finally ran out with 1615 photos on it.
A taxi back was inevitable. It took and hour and five minutes because of the rush hour. The driver was so entertaining, telling us that he was married to a Filipino and lived there three years but she didn't want children - she was businesswoman. But she didn't shout. Now he's married to an Egyptian who shouts a lot, he said sadly. They have five year old triplets, twin girls and a boy. He got out his cell phone to show us. He said she's always phoning him to bring things home, or just to check what he's doing. Sure enough, the phone rang. "Habibe" he said. (That means darling so we knew it was the wife.). He gave the phone to Victor so he could confirm we were in the taxi.
By now
Next to see Pompey's Pillar. Lots of junky ruins around it. Third stop at a very nice Roman Theatre in good condition. John marched into the middle and began the "Friends, Romans, Countrymen, lend me your ears" speech from Shakespeare's Julius Caesar. When he ran out, couple of us helped him remember the next lines. They have also dug out baths, but we couldn't visit, because they are still working on the site.
On the way back to the hotel, four of us got off the bus at the sea and set out to go to the Citadel, which is out on the point, built where the Pharos lighthouse stood. We walked for 35 minutes, then found a cafe for lunch. We waited for it for 35 minutes, but enjoyed our sit down. On we went and there were two beautiful mosques, with elegant lacework in the stone.
By now it was raining hard so we jumped in a taxi and went to the citadel, which is called Fort Qaitbey. Built 1477 with an enormous keep with walls 2m thick. Lovely cream/brownish stone. A wall around it was built much later. My 2 gig camera card finally ran out with 1615 photos on it.
A taxi back was inevitable. It took and hour and five minutes because of the rush hour. The driver was so entertaining, telling us that he was married to a Filipino and lived there three years but she didn't want children - she was businesswoman. But she didn't shout. Now he's married to an Egyptian who shouts a lot, he said sadly. They have five year old triplets, twin girls and a boy. He got out his cell phone to show us. He said she's always phoning him to bring things home, or just to check what he's doing. Sure enough, the phone rang. "Habibe" he said. (That means darling so we knew it was the wife.). He gave the phone to Victor so he could confirm we were in the taxi.
By now
Alexandria Library
Written 26 Jan. We headed west from El Alamein to Alexandria. A very different city from the rest of Egypt but just as dirty on the way in. Worse, really, because there's a vast industrial area, very smelly in parts.
Several of us were very keen to see the wonderful Alexandria Library; 13 got off the bus to do that and the others went on to the hotel. It is breathtaking for its architecture, it's facilities, it's art, it's museums, a library for the visually impaired, an 'Internet archives' which contains ALL the websites created from 1996 to 2007 (I think I've got the years right). A bookshop, a Conference Centre, History of Printing Exhibition. One of the most marvellous buildings I have ever seen. Google it and have a look. Outside is the planetarium, a complete sphere, suspended in the air like a real planet.
Several of us were very keen to see the wonderful Alexandria Library; 13 got off the bus to do that and the others went on to the hotel. It is breathtaking for its architecture, it's facilities, it's art, it's museums, a library for the visually impaired, an 'Internet archives' which contains ALL the websites created from 1996 to 2007 (I think I've got the years right). A bookshop, a Conference Centre, History of Printing Exhibition. One of the most marvellous buildings I have ever seen. Google it and have a look. Outside is the planetarium, a complete sphere, suspended in the air like a real planet.
Pilgramage to El Alamein
Written 26 Jan. It was 23 Jan as we trundled north through the desert. People on the road flash their headlights during the day to warn drivers of a checkpoint or other hazard coming up. There are lots of trucks on the road. In parts it's 2-lanes each way but in other places it's four each way. There are bulldozed parts that suggest it will all be that wide some day. There's a stop for morning tea to break the journey and finally we get to the El Almein Museum at 12.15.
There's a room each for Egypt, Germany and Italy and one for the Allies, so NZ doesn't score very well. A dummy in NZ uniform and a small glass case with a greenstone mere, a white feather and a photo of a member of the Maori battalion. Outside there are lots of WWII vehicles.
It's the cemetery which is the moving part. We are at the Commonwealth Cemetery. Jane is looking for her uncle, and we are caught up in her search, having a real person's grave to find. Believe it or not, we walk in and are standing by Block 2. Row G number 4 is only seven rows in front of us. We are all delighted for her.
Quite a lot of graves have unidentified bodies. I was crying as I read "known to God" on those ones. All of them have Christian crosses. The New Zealanders are not buried together, all nations are mixed up. It was very moving to realise that all those men gave their lives.
There's a room each for Egypt, Germany and Italy and one for the Allies, so NZ doesn't score very well. A dummy in NZ uniform and a small glass case with a greenstone mere, a white feather and a photo of a member of the Maori battalion. Outside there are lots of WWII vehicles.
It's the cemetery which is the moving part. We are at the Commonwealth Cemetery. Jane is looking for her uncle, and we are caught up in her search, having a real person's grave to find. Believe it or not, we walk in and are standing by Block 2. Row G number 4 is only seven rows in front of us. We are all delighted for her.
Quite a lot of graves have unidentified bodies. I was crying as I read "known to God" on those ones. All of them have Christian crosses. The New Zealanders are not buried together, all nations are mixed up. It was very moving to realise that all those men gave their lives.
Back to Cairo and off to El Alamein
Written 26 Jan. We were on the bus and away by 9.15; already it was very hot at the site. Rami pointed out a mirage of water and trees away to the right. Never thought I'd really see one. It's amazing when something you have known about from childhood becomes a reality.
The bus speed limit was 80 kph, so it was a long slow trip back to Aswan, but I slept for an hour. We were at Aswan Airport by 12 30 and had a quick flight to Cairo in a 737. Back to our Oasis Hotel for a meal and a good sleep.
Departure time on 23 Jan was 7.45, heading for El Alamein. TV still showing the Haitian earthquake, 11 days after the tragedy. Text from Brian says, "It's a cold southerly in Wellington." I get Rami to tell the bus. A new word for him. "What is a southerly?" People at the front enlighten him. His English is so good that you would think he is a native speaker.
[Sarah tells us about a woman on a tour who haggled so hard that the shop owner threw her out with a free scarf and said, "You are a hard woman. You will never get a husband.]
[Eddie tells about a stomach remedy he bought for 10 Egyptian pounds - quite a big quantity. He sold what he didn't need to an Egyptian cabin attendant for 20 pounds! We are all admiring of his ingenuity!]
The bus speed limit was 80 kph, so it was a long slow trip back to Aswan, but I slept for an hour. We were at Aswan Airport by 12 30 and had a quick flight to Cairo in a 737. Back to our Oasis Hotel for a meal and a good sleep.
Departure time on 23 Jan was 7.45, heading for El Alamein. TV still showing the Haitian earthquake, 11 days after the tragedy. Text from Brian says, "It's a cold southerly in Wellington." I get Rami to tell the bus. A new word for him. "What is a southerly?" People at the front enlighten him. His English is so good that you would think he is a native speaker.
[Sarah tells us about a woman on a tour who haggled so hard that the shop owner threw her out with a free scarf and said, "You are a hard woman. You will never get a husband.]
[Eddie tells about a stomach remedy he bought for 10 Egyptian pounds - quite a big quantity. He sold what he didn't need to an Egyptian cabin attendant for 20 pounds! We are all admiring of his ingenuity!]
Abu Simbel
Written 26 Jan. It was wonderful to have time to view the two temples properly. The decoration is in superb condition in both Rameses II's temple and that of Nefertari his wife (which is dedicated to Horus. The colour is still there, because them were enveloped in sand, and only a small percentage is damaged.
The four east-facing colossi are 25 m tall. It was 'discovered' in 1814 with only the head of the first statue showing on the left.s it took 40 years to unearth it fully. Babboons above the statues are there to welcome God Ra, the sun, coming each day from the east. The sun shines right into the temple on 22 Feb and 22 October. One is Rameses II's birthday and the other is his coronation day.
The four east-facing colossi are 25 m tall. It was 'discovered' in 1814 with only the head of the first statue showing on the left.s it took 40 years to unearth it fully. Babboons above the statues are there to welcome God Ra, the sun, coming each day from the east. The sun shines right into the temple on 22 Feb and 22 October. One is Rameses II's birthday and the other is his coronation day.
Off to Abu Simbel - my dream fulfilled
Written 26 Jan. The wakeup call came at 2 am. We had our bags outside the door at 2.15 as we were leaving the boat for good. Stumbled upstairs for a drink. I had lemon tea - I didn't want coffee to keep me awake. Off we marched, over the two boats which were tied between us and the shore, and staggered onto the bus with our breakfast boxes.
Our bus joined the convoy of 40-50 leaving at 3 am. This happens each week on boat day. Each bus has an armed guard. I put on my sleep mask and blew up my neck pillow. Slept with my head on my cabin bag; lucky to have two seats. It was 6.30 am when I woke and the pre-dawn light was in the sky. We munched our breakfast as the sun came up. There were lots of small Nubian pyramids in the desert. When we arrived at 7 am it was beautifully cool.
Rami led us down to the site along with the hundreds of others off the buses. When we were nearing it, he asked us to look to the right or down to the ground until he told us to glance up. Obedient little puppies, we did as we were told. "NOW!" he said. We glanced up and we were right in front of the four great statues of Rameses II. WOW! I could not believe I was really here - the fulfillment of a 55 year dream!
Our bus joined the convoy of 40-50 leaving at 3 am. This happens each week on boat day. Each bus has an armed guard. I put on my sleep mask and blew up my neck pillow. Slept with my head on my cabin bag; lucky to have two seats. It was 6.30 am when I woke and the pre-dawn light was in the sky. We munched our breakfast as the sun came up. There were lots of small Nubian pyramids in the desert. When we arrived at 7 am it was beautifully cool.
Rami led us down to the site along with the hundreds of others off the buses. When we were nearing it, he asked us to look to the right or down to the ground until he told us to glance up. Obedient little puppies, we did as we were told. "NOW!" he said. We glanced up and we were right in front of the four great statues of Rameses II. WOW! I could not believe I was really here - the fulfillment of a 55 year dream!
Aswan Bazaar
Written 26 Jan. We are in Nubia now, so the people are tall, with darker skin and curly black hair.
In the afternoon, Jane, Rosemary and I set off to the bazaar. A man caught up with us. "Hello, I'm from your boat. I'm the dessert cook. I made your dessert last night." We have struck this kind of friendliness before, so Jane asks, "What did you cook?" He reels off exactly what we ate at our buffet. Jane and I are satisfied, but Rosemary is not. She asks him what he put in the baclava. The ingredients he names are not what we ate. (But she doesn't tell us until later).
He says he will take us to the market - he is going to buy spices for the boat. We arrive at a small spice shop and are offered a drink of peppermint tea (to be paid for of course). We don't buy, and head into the bazaar. Scarves and pashminas (large wrap around stoles in old fashioned-speak) are on the list for the other two and I'm interested in just seeing what there is. It's very much a local market as well as a tourist one. You can get Nubian necklaces, shopping bags, shoes, teatowels, clothing, stoneware, patchwork.
It was a most entertaining outing. When we asked for something they didn't have, they dashed off up the street to try and find it for us on some other stall.
I left the others when we got back to the Corniche - the wide street along the river. I took photos of the feluccas, for it was the first time we had seen them sailing. The masts are very tall - high above the five storeys of our boat. They look so beautiful.
When I got back I sat on the deck writing my diary and watching the sun set over the hills on the west side of the Nile. It was replaced by first an orange glow silhouetting the hills, then it turned dark red. Wrote until I couldn't see the page.
In the afternoon, Jane, Rosemary and I set off to the bazaar. A man caught up with us. "Hello, I'm from your boat. I'm the dessert cook. I made your dessert last night." We have struck this kind of friendliness before, so Jane asks, "What did you cook?" He reels off exactly what we ate at our buffet. Jane and I are satisfied, but Rosemary is not. She asks him what he put in the baclava. The ingredients he names are not what we ate. (But she doesn't tell us until later).
He says he will take us to the market - he is going to buy spices for the boat. We arrive at a small spice shop and are offered a drink of peppermint tea (to be paid for of course). We don't buy, and head into the bazaar. Scarves and pashminas (large wrap around stoles in old fashioned-speak) are on the list for the other two and I'm interested in just seeing what there is. It's very much a local market as well as a tourist one. You can get Nubian necklaces, shopping bags, shoes, teatowels, clothing, stoneware, patchwork.
It was a most entertaining outing. When we asked for something they didn't have, they dashed off up the street to try and find it for us on some other stall.
I left the others when we got back to the Corniche - the wide street along the river. I took photos of the feluccas, for it was the first time we had seen them sailing. The masts are very tall - high above the five storeys of our boat. They look so beautiful.
When I got back I sat on the deck writing my diary and watching the sun set over the hills on the west side of the Nile. It was replaced by first an orange glow silhouetting the hills, then it turned dark red. Wrote until I couldn't see the page.
Philae Temple, the Aswan High Dam and the Unfinished Obelisk
Written 26 Jan. In the morning of 21 Jan, we staggered out of bed at 6am, and left at 7.30, along with everyone else from the 30+ boats which had docked alongside us. It was a short trip to Aglika Island in small motorboats holding 30-40 people. Why? In 1902 the first Aswan Dam flooded the temple of Philae. Parts of it showed above the water and people were able to visit some of it when the Nile was low. It was moved 5 km and relocated on another island. A beautiful setting with other islands made of piles of rock around it. A place to sit and dream...
After that we went by bus to the Aswan High Dam. WOW! A few of the gates were open and the force of the water bursting through was phenomenal! Rami had never seen this before. The lake behind it is 32 km long. If it burst, the carnage would be horrific! Beyond the lake below the dam, are the houses built for 100,000 Nubians whose villages were flooded when the dam was built. It was made possible by a massive contribution from the Soviet Union.
Our last stop was the pink granite quarry where lies a huge obelisk,cut out on three sides and the point made, before it cracked in two or three places. End of story - an obelisk must be in one piece. It would have been the largest ever erected, would have weighed 1.8 million kg and have been 41 m high. There are no written records of this, so no one is sure when it was created.
After that we went by bus to the Aswan High Dam. WOW! A few of the gates were open and the force of the water bursting through was phenomenal! Rami had never seen this before. The lake behind it is 32 km long. If it burst, the carnage would be horrific! Beyond the lake below the dam, are the houses built for 100,000 Nubians whose villages were flooded when the dam was built. It was made possible by a massive contribution from the Soviet Union.
Our last stop was the pink granite quarry where lies a huge obelisk,cut out on three sides and the point made, before it cracked in two or three places. End of story - an obelisk must be in one piece. It would have been the largest ever erected, would have weighed 1.8 million kg and have been 41 m high. There are no written records of this, so no one is sure when it was created.
Party night
Written 26 Jan. Back on board, we had a delicious buffet dinner with lots of salad and beans for the first course and hot meat, fish and vegetables, followed by very sickly desserts. It is safe to eat the salad vegetables on the boat because they are washed in bottled water. I got my courage to eat salad for the first time in Egypt when no one was sick or upset after the first 24 hours.
Several of the women in our group had bought gabalyas - the burka style robes with gold embroidery down the front. Two of the men turned themselves into mummies with toilet paper. Rami, resplendent in a long plain robe, organised elimination games and then we danced for what seemed like hours.
Several of the women in our group had bought gabalyas - the burka style robes with gold embroidery down the front. Two of the men turned themselves into mummies with toilet paper. Rami, resplendent in a long plain robe, organised elimination games and then we danced for what seemed like hours.
The other two temples
Written 26 Jan.
On to Edfu Temple with an added element, a 'Nileometer'. This was a deep well affair with a spiral staircase so that the ancient Egyptians could go down and measure how high up it the Nile had come.
Went out in the sun to write up my diary. Eddie was in the swimming pool. I worked out that it's four strokes across; so I would have to do 2800 strokes to complete a km. Decided to leave swimming until I get home.
Trains pass us; one in each direction. The line is on the east bank with the road beside it. Not very busy - a vehicle in each direction about every 30 seconds.
Afternoon tea is served on the boat at 5 pm. This is a cup of coffee or tea with three biscuits and a slice of plain cake. Some of our group are playing table tennis.
Out in the dark to our third temple of the day, Kom Ombo, floodlit. Man with two snakes on the footpath on the way. People came here for medical advice and often had to wait a long time. There's a place where two or three people have scratched the shape of their feet on the ground with a stone.
Two really interesting things here: drawings of 80 medical tooks, and a calendar showing when the Nile will flood and when the seeding, harvest and festivals took place. It's the only temple dedicated to two gods: Horus the elder and Sobek the crocodile God. The pharaoh came here to listen to the voice of the gods, which the priests provided by going underground and speaking a message up through a tunnel.
On to Edfu Temple with an added element, a 'Nileometer'. This was a deep well affair with a spiral staircase so that the ancient Egyptians could go down and measure how high up it the Nile had come.
Went out in the sun to write up my diary. Eddie was in the swimming pool. I worked out that it's four strokes across; so I would have to do 2800 strokes to complete a km. Decided to leave swimming until I get home.
Trains pass us; one in each direction. The line is on the east bank with the road beside it. Not very busy - a vehicle in each direction about every 30 seconds.
Afternoon tea is served on the boat at 5 pm. This is a cup of coffee or tea with three biscuits and a slice of plain cake. Some of our group are playing table tennis.
Out in the dark to our third temple of the day, Kom Ombo, floodlit. Man with two snakes on the footpath on the way. People came here for medical advice and often had to wait a long time. There's a place where two or three people have scratched the shape of their feet on the ground with a stone.
Two really interesting things here: drawings of 80 medical tooks, and a calendar showing when the Nile will flood and when the seeding, harvest and festivals took place. It's the only temple dedicated to two gods: Horus the elder and Sobek the crocodile God. The pharaoh came here to listen to the voice of the gods, which the priests provided by going underground and speaking a message up through a tunnel.
Floating down the Nile part 2
Posted Tues 26th. The ship is off and I'm off upstairs for a few quick photos in the early sun. After breakfast I go up on deck seriously. It's freezing - the wind has a cutting edge like a Wellington southerly. Come with me as we pass 2-man fishing boats, minarets gleaming in the sun, birds flying in formation, palm trees, a large bird landing on the ship's railing, cellphone towers.
Eventually I'm so cold I can't stand it any more anso I go back to the cabin and 'rug up' in polar fleece, nylon parka and woolly hat. Sunglasses complete my viewing ensemble. A small boat comes past towing two larger ones; attached behind it are two feluccas and a dinghy. Birds circle over a ruffled patch in the river, then dive for fish. The mist/murk is down almost to ground (or rather river) level so I cannot see the other boat that left just before us. Every now and then there's another small boat, one or two fishermen aboard, clumps of what look like toitois (but are probably papyrus growing in the river). There are lots of reed islands.
Mountains in the distance. The sun is in front of us as we travel south east. We overtake a barge carrying a large stack of dry stalks - maybe sugar cane. In quick succession nine cruise boats pass us, heading north. La Traviata, Albatros, Adonis, Giselle - lovely names.
Eventually I'm so cold I can't stand it any more anso I go back to the cabin and 'rug up' in polar fleece, nylon parka and woolly hat. Sunglasses complete my viewing ensemble. A small boat comes past towing two larger ones; attached behind it are two feluccas and a dinghy. Birds circle over a ruffled patch in the river, then dive for fish. The mist/murk is down almost to ground (or rather river) level so I cannot see the other boat that left just before us. Every now and then there's another small boat, one or two fishermen aboard, clumps of what look like toitois (but are probably papyrus growing in the river). There are lots of reed islands.
Mountains in the distance. The sun is in front of us as we travel south east. We overtake a barge carrying a large stack of dry stalks - maybe sugar cane. In quick succession nine cruise boats pass us, heading north. La Traviata, Albatros, Adonis, Giselle - lovely names.
A temple before dawn
Written Tuesday 26th. Happy birthday brother.
After going through a lock about 8 pm on the 19th, the boat travelled down the Nile for another hour then tied up with the others at Esna. We staggered out of bed at 5.15 am and tossed down a cup of hot black coffee. Why? To visit the temple before the boat departed at 7 am. No one was there to open up for us; just a few dogs pottering around. Rami got on his cellphone - I think he has a contact number for every place and person we might need - and a man appeared, bleary and rubbing his eyes.
The temple was close to the river bank, in a deep hole. The reason was that the ground level is now up above the roof of the temple. As a result of being filled with sand for hundreds of years, ithe paintings and etchings are well preserved. One wall has dozens of crocodiles.
On the way back to the boat, a man has opened up his shop front. He offers a big shawl covered with Egyptian pictures for five pounds. I am thinking Egyptian, but he is thinking British. We haggle a bit and I buy two for 80 Egyptian pounds, which is $NZ20. All this on the run, it's just a short trot to catch up with the group. We were back on the boat before the sun rose.
After going through a lock about 8 pm on the 19th, the boat travelled down the Nile for another hour then tied up with the others at Esna. We staggered out of bed at 5.15 am and tossed down a cup of hot black coffee. Why? To visit the temple before the boat departed at 7 am. No one was there to open up for us; just a few dogs pottering around. Rami got on his cellphone - I think he has a contact number for every place and person we might need - and a man appeared, bleary and rubbing his eyes.
The temple was close to the river bank, in a deep hole. The reason was that the ground level is now up above the roof of the temple. As a result of being filled with sand for hundreds of years, ithe paintings and etchings are well preserved. One wall has dozens of crocodiles.
On the way back to the boat, a man has opened up his shop front. He offers a big shawl covered with Egyptian pictures for five pounds. I am thinking Egyptian, but he is thinking British. We haggle a bit and I buy two for 80 Egyptian pounds, which is $NZ20. All this on the run, it's just a short trot to catch up with the group. We were back on the boat before the sun rose.
Saturday, 23 January 2010
Floating down the Nile
Written Sat 19th. I was on such a high... A dream come true. Was I really here? Past Luxor we move, and are quickly away from the city. On the starboard, there are houses high above the river (because of the great floods that used to take place before the Aswan High Dam was built.) Low islands in the river are tilled wherever possible. Other boats toot from time to time. Sometimes we pass one; sometimes one passes us. The toots seem to say, "I'm faster than you!"
A soft breeze is blowing; no sound but the quiet thrum of the engine. The sky is clearer than it's been since we arrived in Egypt. I wondered whether yesterday's lovely breeze has blown the pollution away. I'm lying on a sun lounger on the top deck and nearly falling asleep. The 3 pm prayer call echoes across the water. Ahead I can see 11 boats and behind, 13. Ours is the 'MS Sherryboat'. Other names are Cheops III, Seiramis I, Beau Soleil, Esadora.
As darkness fell, I was down in our cabin. There was a shout outside the window. Two men in a small rowboat. "My lady. Burka." With that they hurled a plastic bag in the window of the cabin, containing a beautiful long red burka with gold thread embroidery. Before I can open in, a black one follows, just chucked, not in a bag, and they are unfolding a white one. I bung the first two back in the bag and hurl them back. "Laa!" (No). I slam the window shut and shut the curtains but they continue to call until I switch out the light. Now that couldn't happen in kiwiland!
Out of time now; we're off to El Alamein in ten minutes. I'll hope to find an Internet cafe in Alexandria where we spend the next two nights.
A soft breeze is blowing; no sound but the quiet thrum of the engine. The sky is clearer than it's been since we arrived in Egypt. I wondered whether yesterday's lovely breeze has blown the pollution away. I'm lying on a sun lounger on the top deck and nearly falling asleep. The 3 pm prayer call echoes across the water. Ahead I can see 11 boats and behind, 13. Ours is the 'MS Sherryboat'. Other names are Cheops III, Seiramis I, Beau Soleil, Esadora.
As darkness fell, I was down in our cabin. There was a shout outside the window. Two men in a small rowboat. "My lady. Burka." With that they hurled a plastic bag in the window of the cabin, containing a beautiful long red burka with gold thread embroidery. Before I can open in, a black one follows, just chucked, not in a bag, and they are unfolding a white one. I bung the first two back in the bag and hurl them back. "Laa!" (No). I slam the window shut and shut the curtains but they continue to call until I switch out the light. Now that couldn't happen in kiwiland!
Out of time now; we're off to El Alamein in ten minutes. I'll hope to find an Internet cafe in Alexandria where we spend the next two nights.
Tuesday, 19 January 2010
All Aboard
Late morning Monday 18th we packed up and were transferred to our boat on the Nile. Said farewell to our driver Emed; we will catch up with him again after we fly back to Cairo.
The huge cruise boats are moored four abreast. We were led across the first one, as ours was the second from the wharf. There are dozens of boats; must be downturn time, because this is the tourist season - it's unbearably hot in the middle of the year. We will have four nights on board, heading south to the Aswan Dam and Abu Simbel. Lunch was served; it would have done us for dinner - canelloni filled with mince first, then a small plate of veal, potatoes and peas.
So now I'm sitting in an Internet cafe just along the river bank, bringing the blog up to date. Not sure when I'll be able to blog again, but don't worry, I'll be save on the boat, visiting - guess what? More temples of course. Lots of love to my family and friends. Thanks for comments posted.
The huge cruise boats are moored four abreast. We were led across the first one, as ours was the second from the wharf. There are dozens of boats; must be downturn time, because this is the tourist season - it's unbearably hot in the middle of the year. We will have four nights on board, heading south to the Aswan Dam and Abu Simbel. Lunch was served; it would have done us for dinner - canelloni filled with mince first, then a small plate of veal, potatoes and peas.
So now I'm sitting in an Internet cafe just along the river bank, bringing the blog up to date. Not sure when I'll be able to blog again, but don't worry, I'll be save on the boat, visiting - guess what? More temples of course. Lots of love to my family and friends. Thanks for comments posted.
Sunday Evening
Off to the papyrus shop. The man demonstrated the process. Cut the stalks of the plant into slices about 15 cm long. They are 2-3 cm thick, and triangular in cross section - like a pyramid. Remove the green 'skin'. Chop the white core into very thin slices lengthwise and soak them in water for 7 days. They are full of sugar, so the water must be changed every day.
Lay the strips beside each other so they are just touching. Then place another layer across them, again just touching. (They are NOT interwoven). Place them between two pieces of felt and screw down a heavy press on them. Leave that for 7 days. The sugar acts as glue.
After that, the outline of a famous picture is stamped on it and an artist colours and signs it. There were hundreds, from 20cm square up to about 1.5 metres wide, but none in the beautiful gold and black that I bought yesterday.
Next stop was Luxor Museum. Not a huge collection - all of it would have fitted in one of the jumbled rooms at the Egyptian Museum in Cairo. But so beautifully presented. Each statue lit to show it to advantage, all the small ones in separate glass cases.
Finally, to an cotton goods outlet which sells remainders from export lines. I had hoped to find polo shirts for Brian, but they only had XXL which would have been nightshirts for him. Still looking.
On the way back there were some flashes of lightning in the distance and the first rain we have seen in Egypt - just some spots on the bus window.
Lay the strips beside each other so they are just touching. Then place another layer across them, again just touching. (They are NOT interwoven). Place them between two pieces of felt and screw down a heavy press on them. Leave that for 7 days. The sugar acts as glue.
After that, the outline of a famous picture is stamped on it and an artist colours and signs it. There were hundreds, from 20cm square up to about 1.5 metres wide, but none in the beautiful gold and black that I bought yesterday.
Next stop was Luxor Museum. Not a huge collection - all of it would have fitted in one of the jumbled rooms at the Egyptian Museum in Cairo. But so beautifully presented. Each statue lit to show it to advantage, all the small ones in separate glass cases.
Finally, to an cotton goods outlet which sells remainders from export lines. I had hoped to find polo shirts for Brian, but they only had XXL which would have been nightshirts for him. Still looking.
On the way back there were some flashes of lightning in the distance and the first rain we have seen in Egypt - just some spots on the bus window.
Dendara
On Sunday 17th we left at 8.35, heading north to the temple at Dendara. The sun came out enough to reflect the palm trees in the canal on our left alongside the highway. We were retracing our tracks. This is the road we came down to Luxor last Wednesday. There are bougainvillea bushes on both sides and the villages are off to the right, behind another, smaller canal. Two women in black were standing by the road, having a chat, with large baskets on their heads. Perfect posture - you cannot slump in this position.
The tour has been arranged as far as possible so that we have been to the Old Kingdom sites, then the Middle Kingdom, followed by the New Kingdom. There's a strong Graeco-Roman influence here. Just inside the gate there's a carving of a dwarf with the face of a lion. His tongue was hanging out so we thought he must have been doing a haka.
The temple was built in the time of Cleopatra VII. She's the Cleopatra we know about, who married Julius Caesar. She is portrayed on one side of the temple with her son Caesarion in front of her. This is the only portrait of her in Egypt. Because of the Graeco-Roman influence, the columns have capitals (lumps on the top) and instead of the lotus flowers we have seen in most places, there are female heads with cows' ears. There's a wonderful shrine; the pictures are etched onto the cream stone and every single one is perfect. Maybe because it's only about 2000 years old - much of what we have seen was created 3000 or 4000 years ago.
On one of the rooms, Nut (pronounced Nute as I noted earlier) spreads herself across the ceiling, giving birth to Ra, the sun. A very special thing here is a huge circle containing the signs of the Zodiac. Round the edge are four goddesses of protection plus 8 Horuses = 12 months. They all have their hands up, indicating 24 hours in the day. Each month consisted of 3 weeks of 10 days. This made a total of 360 days in the year. The other five were feast days, making 365 in total. Actually the original of this amazing creation is in Paris - this is a copy.
We were able to go up onto the roof, folowing a ramp with all the bas relief people on the walls facing uphill. The down ramp had the opposite. NB: to read hieroglyphics you look at the the way a person or bird is pointing and go on until you get one facing in the opposite direction. That is like a full stop. Hieroglyphics can go left, right or down, but NOT up.s
In our free time I went to a walled enclosure that was a sacred lake. Now only sand and palm trees. But one of the Museum and Antiquities policemen came over and led me down the steps into it. "Water" he said. He picked up some pebbles and tossed them into the dark hole under the steps. Sure enough, there was a splash. He gave me seven and indicated I must throw in one at a time. I assumed this was for good luck, so I did. Then he took a photo of me by the palm trees, indicating that I should take up a Cleopatra pose with hands up and out to the sides. I gave him five pounds for his trouble. Doesn't it sound a lot - but of course it's only NZ$1.25.
On the way home I fell asleep on the bus. (All this mental and physical exercise makes us very tired.) Woke just as we reached the hotel at 3 pm. Perfect timing.
The tour has been arranged as far as possible so that we have been to the Old Kingdom sites, then the Middle Kingdom, followed by the New Kingdom. There's a strong Graeco-Roman influence here. Just inside the gate there's a carving of a dwarf with the face of a lion. His tongue was hanging out so we thought he must have been doing a haka.
The temple was built in the time of Cleopatra VII. She's the Cleopatra we know about, who married Julius Caesar. She is portrayed on one side of the temple with her son Caesarion in front of her. This is the only portrait of her in Egypt. Because of the Graeco-Roman influence, the columns have capitals (lumps on the top) and instead of the lotus flowers we have seen in most places, there are female heads with cows' ears. There's a wonderful shrine; the pictures are etched onto the cream stone and every single one is perfect. Maybe because it's only about 2000 years old - much of what we have seen was created 3000 or 4000 years ago.
On one of the rooms, Nut (pronounced Nute as I noted earlier) spreads herself across the ceiling, giving birth to Ra, the sun. A very special thing here is a huge circle containing the signs of the Zodiac. Round the edge are four goddesses of protection plus 8 Horuses = 12 months. They all have their hands up, indicating 24 hours in the day. Each month consisted of 3 weeks of 10 days. This made a total of 360 days in the year. The other five were feast days, making 365 in total. Actually the original of this amazing creation is in Paris - this is a copy.
We were able to go up onto the roof, folowing a ramp with all the bas relief people on the walls facing uphill. The down ramp had the opposite. NB: to read hieroglyphics you look at the the way a person or bird is pointing and go on until you get one facing in the opposite direction. That is like a full stop. Hieroglyphics can go left, right or down, but NOT up.s
In our free time I went to a walled enclosure that was a sacred lake. Now only sand and palm trees. But one of the Museum and Antiquities policemen came over and led me down the steps into it. "Water" he said. He picked up some pebbles and tossed them into the dark hole under the steps. Sure enough, there was a splash. He gave me seven and indicated I must throw in one at a time. I assumed this was for good luck, so I did. Then he took a photo of me by the palm trees, indicating that I should take up a Cleopatra pose with hands up and out to the sides. I gave him five pounds for his trouble. Doesn't it sound a lot - but of course it's only NZ$1.25.
On the way home I fell asleep on the bus. (All this mental and physical exercise makes us very tired.) Woke just as we reached the hotel at 3 pm. Perfect timing.
Sunday, 17 January 2010
Jane and I have an adventure
After all the temples it was good to get back to the hotel in mid afternoon. My room mate Jane and I decided that we would go walking. We'd only gone a short distance when we were accosted by one of the many caleche drivers. A caleche is a small carriage pulled by a horse and there are dozens of them in Luxor. Jane was suddenly keen, so we hopped in when they offered to take us to the Saturday market for five pounds (NZ$1.25) I was a bit wary.
The horse was limping and Jane voiced her concern. The man said it was because she'd been pregnant for 11 months. He flicked her with the reins and Jane asked him not to hit the horse. There was a whip. He assured her he didn't use it on the horse, but we didn't believe him. Suddenly he drew up behind another caleche, obviously owned by the same group and swapped us into it so we wouldn't be worried about the horse.
We didn't know where the market was, but we went down Television Rd which was on the map the hotel had given us, and we saw Luxor Temple to the left, so we had our bearings, so to speak. The caleche drove to a shop, not a market at all. So we hopped out and took off. We walked back towards the temple, feeling quite relieved that we'd got rid of them. After all, you can't really chase a customer when you are managing a horse.
There was a proper bazaar on our left; Jane bought some scarves and I bought some pictures on papyrus. Then we walked to the Nile and took photos of the sunset behind the boats. On the way back to the hotel we ate vegetable tajine. Yum!
NB Sarah our tour leader says they have a free hospital for horses; this is an attempt to ensure that they don't get run into an early grave.
The horse was limping and Jane voiced her concern. The man said it was because she'd been pregnant for 11 months. He flicked her with the reins and Jane asked him not to hit the horse. There was a whip. He assured her he didn't use it on the horse, but we didn't believe him. Suddenly he drew up behind another caleche, obviously owned by the same group and swapped us into it so we wouldn't be worried about the horse.
We didn't know where the market was, but we went down Television Rd which was on the map the hotel had given us, and we saw Luxor Temple to the left, so we had our bearings, so to speak. The caleche drove to a shop, not a market at all. So we hopped out and took off. We walked back towards the temple, feeling quite relieved that we'd got rid of them. After all, you can't really chase a customer when you are managing a horse.
There was a proper bazaar on our left; Jane bought some scarves and I bought some pictures on papyrus. Then we walked to the Nile and took photos of the sunset behind the boats. On the way back to the hotel we ate vegetable tajine. Yum!
NB Sarah our tour leader says they have a free hospital for horses; this is an attempt to ensure that they don't get run into an early grave.
The Temple of Hatshepsut and the Colossus
A new day. Intrepid is the name of our group. We made it up the first day. And when Rami said, "Come closer please," we told him, "Just say 'Intrepid, scrum."
You may have seen photos of this temple, which is set right against the high cliffs, with its colonnade appearing in many photos of the West Bank. An enormous amount of work has been done by Polish archaeologists, to repair, restore, replace and rebuild what is missing. Hatshepsut was a woman who decided she would be the pharaoh. She was married to her brother Thutmosis II (they had different mothers)and it was expected when he died that their son would become Thutmosis III. But he was only 8. Hatshepsut paid the priests to help her. The story they came up with was that she was the son of the God Amon. This story was painted onto the walls of the temple and people believed it. She ruled well for 21 years. But her son, then 29, came back and she disappeared. No one knows who killed her.
As we were going to the bus a man offered me 40 postcards. I say I'll pay him 10 pounds. 'No. 30." I offer 10. "Okay 10." Out of my pocket comes a 20 pound note. Do they want to give me change? They do not. He offers me a fold-out map of the Nile. "10 for the cards and 20 for the map." I say 20. "Okay." I'm so pleased with my bargaining skills. The map turns out to be in Italian and French but that's okay - I can read both.
The other amazing thing we saw was the massive, smashed statue of Rameses, which prompted Shelley to write the poem Ozymandias. Huge is not a strong enough word for it. It weighed 1000 tonnes and was 18 metres high. One of the feet still had the little toenail and that was bigger than my hand.
We also went to the temple behind it, which is called the Ramesseum. When the statue fell, aeons ago, it smashed down half of the front of the temple (the pylon). The temple of Habu came next, the second largest after Karnak. Hardly anyone there because it is not famous. I won't go into details - might be too boring unless you are passionate about Egypt.
You may have seen photos of this temple, which is set right against the high cliffs, with its colonnade appearing in many photos of the West Bank. An enormous amount of work has been done by Polish archaeologists, to repair, restore, replace and rebuild what is missing. Hatshepsut was a woman who decided she would be the pharaoh. She was married to her brother Thutmosis II (they had different mothers)and it was expected when he died that their son would become Thutmosis III. But he was only 8. Hatshepsut paid the priests to help her. The story they came up with was that she was the son of the God Amon. This story was painted onto the walls of the temple and people believed it. She ruled well for 21 years. But her son, then 29, came back and she disappeared. No one knows who killed her.
As we were going to the bus a man offered me 40 postcards. I say I'll pay him 10 pounds. 'No. 30." I offer 10. "Okay 10." Out of my pocket comes a 20 pound note. Do they want to give me change? They do not. He offers me a fold-out map of the Nile. "10 for the cards and 20 for the map." I say 20. "Okay." I'm so pleased with my bargaining skills. The map turns out to be in Italian and French but that's okay - I can read both.
The other amazing thing we saw was the massive, smashed statue of Rameses, which prompted Shelley to write the poem Ozymandias. Huge is not a strong enough word for it. It weighed 1000 tonnes and was 18 metres high. One of the feet still had the little toenail and that was bigger than my hand.
We also went to the temple behind it, which is called the Ramesseum. When the statue fell, aeons ago, it smashed down half of the front of the temple (the pylon). The temple of Habu came next, the second largest after Karnak. Hardly anyone there because it is not famous. I won't go into details - might be too boring unless you are passionate about Egypt.
Tombs of the Nobles
In the afternoon we visited seven tombs of nobles, which are among 60 or more dug into a rough, stony hillside not far from the Valley of the Kings. It was very hot and not easy going, as often the tombs were so small that only a third of the group could go in at a time. I was so hot; probably should have been drinking extra water. The final tomb, that of Sennefer, is in superb condition, which almost all the paintings looking as if they were completed yesterday and the ceiling covered with painted grape vines and bunches of grapes.
Valley of the Kings - Highlights
As you can imagine this was one of the highlights of the trip - a place I'd wanted to visit since I was 12 years old. But first, we stopped at Deir el Medina, the village where the tomb builders lived. We went into the tombs of Sennedjem and of Anbherkha. They were painted, not sculpted into the stone. There were trees, baboons, boats, harvesting, beautifully executed and in excellent condition.
The area is huge craggy rocks, rearing up. No smooth slopes here. We passed the home of Howard Carter, discoverer of Tutankhamun's tomb. It's a domed structure high on a hill.
Your ticket lets you enter three tombs. It's an extra 100 Egyptian pounds to visit the tomb of Tutankhamen and 50 to visit that of Rameses VI. No cameras are allowed so you have to work hard at absorbing and remembering every little detail.
Our guide Rami was very helpful. He walked us up the valley, pointing out where each tomb was, and then when we got further up, stopped and went over it all again. Sarah, our Victoria University lecturer, told us what to expect in each, and recommended what she thought was most exciting. But we still had to choose.
I started at the tomb of Thutmosis III. He lived from 1504 -1450 BC. You had to climb up some steep steps to the entrance. The tomb and antechamber are covered with stick figures, showing all the usual expected scenes but without much colour. The ceiling is painted like a dark blue starry sky.
It was great to see what Tutankhamen's tomb is like, after seeing almost all the contents in the Cairo Museum. Here, there's the red granite sarcophagus and one of the gold inner coffins. There are large sacred baboons painted on one wall.
The tomb of Rameses VI was superb. A long corridor, getting higher as you walked down it. A beautiful blue ceiling in the corridor, with Nut (pronounced Nute), the sky goddess. Her legs were at the beginning, her body stretched for metres and metres along the side of the roof, and ended in her head and arms at the other end, so that she was wrapped around, protecting everything.
The area is huge craggy rocks, rearing up. No smooth slopes here. We passed the home of Howard Carter, discoverer of Tutankhamun's tomb. It's a domed structure high on a hill.
Your ticket lets you enter three tombs. It's an extra 100 Egyptian pounds to visit the tomb of Tutankhamen and 50 to visit that of Rameses VI. No cameras are allowed so you have to work hard at absorbing and remembering every little detail.
Our guide Rami was very helpful. He walked us up the valley, pointing out where each tomb was, and then when we got further up, stopped and went over it all again. Sarah, our Victoria University lecturer, told us what to expect in each, and recommended what she thought was most exciting. But we still had to choose.
I started at the tomb of Thutmosis III. He lived from 1504 -1450 BC. You had to climb up some steep steps to the entrance. The tomb and antechamber are covered with stick figures, showing all the usual expected scenes but without much colour. The ceiling is painted like a dark blue starry sky.
It was great to see what Tutankhamen's tomb is like, after seeing almost all the contents in the Cairo Museum. Here, there's the red granite sarcophagus and one of the gold inner coffins. There are large sacred baboons painted on one wall.
The tomb of Rameses VI was superb. A long corridor, getting higher as you walked down it. A beautiful blue ceiling in the corridor, with Nut (pronounced Nute), the sky goddess. Her legs were at the beginning, her body stretched for metres and metres along the side of the roof, and ended in her head and arms at the other end, so that she was wrapped around, protecting everything.
Saturday, 16 January 2010
Karnak Temple
After lunch we are off to Karnak. We thought Luxor Temple was huge, but Karnak is ENORMOUS! It takes three hours to walk from the pylons at the entrance, through the museum, the Open Court with the temple of Seti II, the remains of mud brick ramps used to build the fron pylon, two more pylons further in, great columns, a massive statue of Rameses II and his favourite wife Nefertari, or maybe it's his daughter whome he also married. They are not sure. He had 150 children.
Next comes the Hypostyle Hall with 134 enormous columns. I think these must be the largest pillars in the world. Rami got some of us to hold hands round one, with arms outstretched. It took 11 people to encircle it! Some of them have pictures carved into them, others have bas reliefs with the pictures raised up by the background being cut away. We can see how the pillars are made. They piled up rectangular blocks, chipped away at them to get the circular shape, then smoothed them all off. We are also told how to erect an obelisk. Build a mountain of dirt around where you want it to go, leaving a hole in the middle. drag the obelisk up and ease it into the hole so it's upright. Unbuild the mountain of dirt.
By the way, there are only six obelisks left in Egypt. There are 12 in Rome, 1 in London, 1 in Paris etc. They are all granite, all made in one piece. Sarah, our NZ guide, told us she was looking up at the one here and got a crick in her neck. "Oh, my neck," said she. "Which Pharaoh was that?" asked one of the women she was guiding.
On and on we went for the whole afternoon, temple after temple. eventually we got to the end of the whole complex, where busted bits were stacked. Near the cafeteria there's a large granite scarab beetle, about a metre long, mounted on a plinth. They play an important part in Egyptology.
It seemed a very quick walk back; we'd spent three hours seeing it all, but only 20 minutes walking back. You won't be surprised to know that my brain was tired as well as my body. Bought a great book about it all.
Next comes the Hypostyle Hall with 134 enormous columns. I think these must be the largest pillars in the world. Rami got some of us to hold hands round one, with arms outstretched. It took 11 people to encircle it! Some of them have pictures carved into them, others have bas reliefs with the pictures raised up by the background being cut away. We can see how the pillars are made. They piled up rectangular blocks, chipped away at them to get the circular shape, then smoothed them all off. We are also told how to erect an obelisk. Build a mountain of dirt around where you want it to go, leaving a hole in the middle. drag the obelisk up and ease it into the hole so it's upright. Unbuild the mountain of dirt.
By the way, there are only six obelisks left in Egypt. There are 12 in Rome, 1 in London, 1 in Paris etc. They are all granite, all made in one piece. Sarah, our NZ guide, told us she was looking up at the one here and got a crick in her neck. "Oh, my neck," said she. "Which Pharaoh was that?" asked one of the women she was guiding.
On and on we went for the whole afternoon, temple after temple. eventually we got to the end of the whole complex, where busted bits were stacked. Near the cafeteria there's a large granite scarab beetle, about a metre long, mounted on a plinth. They play an important part in Egyptology.
It seemed a very quick walk back; we'd spent three hours seeing it all, but only 20 minutes walking back. You won't be surprised to know that my brain was tired as well as my body. Bought a great book about it all.
Luxor the magnificent
Our morning is for visiting Luxor Temple. WOW! Luxor means, 'the palaces.' It was the capital of the New Kingdom. Outside it, there's a row of 65 sphinxes which originally went all the way to the Karnak Temple on the other side of town. Currently they are pulling down buildings to recreate that road. It is believed that there were 3000 sphinxes in ancient times. Luxor was abandoned and the temple filled with sand; a mosque was built on that level in the Middle Ages.
This edifice is vast! The front of a temple is called the pylons, the two tall buildings with a gateway in the middle. There's a wonderful granite obelisk. The other one is in Paris, sent there by King Mohammad Ali in the early 1800s - I think I wrote about it earlier. Such a pity. Four stone baboons at the bottom. There are huge, broken statues. I photograph the foot of one. It's 1m 50cm from heel to toe and the middle toenail is 10cm. At least 3m to the knee. It was wonderful to have plenty of time here. The pillars are massive, the statues are massive, the rooms are massive... do you get the picture? Overwhelming!
This edifice is vast! The front of a temple is called the pylons, the two tall buildings with a gateway in the middle. There's a wonderful granite obelisk. The other one is in Paris, sent there by King Mohammad Ali in the early 1800s - I think I wrote about it earlier. Such a pity. Four stone baboons at the bottom. There are huge, broken statues. I photograph the foot of one. It's 1m 50cm from heel to toe and the middle toenail is 10cm. At least 3m to the knee. It was wonderful to have plenty of time here. The pillars are massive, the statues are massive, the rooms are massive... do you get the picture? Overwhelming!
A long bus ride
Best sleep yet - all night undisturbed until the prayer call at 5.30 - and a rooster which refused to stop trying to wake the dead! Bit of a holdup after breakfast - the bus had a flat battery. But they got it going after five minutes. A Swedish tour group had also stayed in the hotel for the last two nights; they left just before us. The day is grey as we drive through streets littered with trash. People are heading for work. A grandmother in black robe is taking a child to school. Crumbling houses, dirty washing hanging outside. Motorbikes ducking and diving between other vehicles.
Suddenly we are out of town and there are green crops on both sides and a canal on the left. It really is intensive farming. Most crops are small and green at present. As everywhere, people smile and wave in response to our waves. A few sunflowers add a touch of colour. There's a field of mandarines surrounded by a brick wall. Yet another photo of President Mubarak. A group of boys jump up and down, shouting and waving as the bus passes. A group of white herons perch on the bank of the canal. At the next village a donkey pulling a cart full of green fodder has been stopped. A goat has its front feet up on the wheel of the cart; it's happily eating the fodder. We have caught up with the Swedish tourists but we're not going very fast.
By 10.30 the sun has broken through the murk. There are mountains in front of us. Suddenly we are in a city with highrise appartments of 6-8 storeys. There's a canal, lots of electricity pylons, oil tanks, modern office blocks. It is Asyut, pronounced As-yute. It has taken us two and a half hours to go 110km, which means an average of about 44 km per hour. Coptic Christians believe that on the flight into Egypt, Mary, Joseph and Jesus sheltered in caves nearby.
It's complicated being on the road. Rami explains that there are three different checkers: police, tourist and road security and we must stop at each. Each goes down the list. 30 New Zealanders. Going to... Your name and phone. Driver's name and phone. Okay. Go. Then they call the next checkpoint to advise them that we are coming. But it's all for our safety.
We go on and on and on and on. Eventually we arrive at the Cenotaph Temple of Seti I which was built during his reign from 1294 to 1279 BC. It's a fabulous place to visit, but the police have said that we must get on the road again in 1 hour! We are really put out, as this is one of the very special places to visit. We have to run to see as much as possible at a site which needed at least two hours. There's wonderful art and just outside is the Osireion, a symbolic tomb of God Osiris, which was discovered in 1902 and dug out in 1926. I run round like a mad thing taking photos "no flash".
We dash back to the bus on time, but the battery is flat again. About 10 men push and thanks be, it starts. And we're off. It's after 3 pm and there's a long way to go yet. We come to the Nile and for the first time it looks the width I'd expected. We cross over and follow the east bank south. There's a big mesa hill on our left and reed islands in the river.
As we travel south we see more and more houses with some colour. A few are cream or lemon or turquoise. White bricks are still much in use, but also other colours, some in patterns. There are millions of sugar cane plants. Ripe dates are hanging in great bunches from the trees. On and on and on we go.
Finally we are on the outskirts of LUXOR. The sun has set and as we drive through the city we pass the wonderful temple, floodlit! Magic! It has taken us eight and three quarter hours to get here! Our hotel is the Sheraton, really nice. I get on with my blog for the first time in some days. As I finish and walk out, Some of our group come down the street, looking for a meal. I join in and we find a very nice restaurant. The owner shoves tables together so that ten of us are seated and we laugh and joke as we wait for our meals. Wonder of wonders, there are cooked vegetables - only my second in Egypt. The waiter laughs as one by one we each order chicken or meat "with vegetables". He's thrown when John asks for fish "with chips."
Suddenly we are out of town and there are green crops on both sides and a canal on the left. It really is intensive farming. Most crops are small and green at present. As everywhere, people smile and wave in response to our waves. A few sunflowers add a touch of colour. There's a field of mandarines surrounded by a brick wall. Yet another photo of President Mubarak. A group of boys jump up and down, shouting and waving as the bus passes. A group of white herons perch on the bank of the canal. At the next village a donkey pulling a cart full of green fodder has been stopped. A goat has its front feet up on the wheel of the cart; it's happily eating the fodder. We have caught up with the Swedish tourists but we're not going very fast.
By 10.30 the sun has broken through the murk. There are mountains in front of us. Suddenly we are in a city with highrise appartments of 6-8 storeys. There's a canal, lots of electricity pylons, oil tanks, modern office blocks. It is Asyut, pronounced As-yute. It has taken us two and a half hours to go 110km, which means an average of about 44 km per hour. Coptic Christians believe that on the flight into Egypt, Mary, Joseph and Jesus sheltered in caves nearby.
It's complicated being on the road. Rami explains that there are three different checkers: police, tourist and road security and we must stop at each. Each goes down the list. 30 New Zealanders. Going to... Your name and phone. Driver's name and phone. Okay. Go. Then they call the next checkpoint to advise them that we are coming. But it's all for our safety.
We go on and on and on and on. Eventually we arrive at the Cenotaph Temple of Seti I which was built during his reign from 1294 to 1279 BC. It's a fabulous place to visit, but the police have said that we must get on the road again in 1 hour! We are really put out, as this is one of the very special places to visit. We have to run to see as much as possible at a site which needed at least two hours. There's wonderful art and just outside is the Osireion, a symbolic tomb of God Osiris, which was discovered in 1902 and dug out in 1926. I run round like a mad thing taking photos "no flash".
We dash back to the bus on time, but the battery is flat again. About 10 men push and thanks be, it starts. And we're off. It's after 3 pm and there's a long way to go yet. We come to the Nile and for the first time it looks the width I'd expected. We cross over and follow the east bank south. There's a big mesa hill on our left and reed islands in the river.
As we travel south we see more and more houses with some colour. A few are cream or lemon or turquoise. White bricks are still much in use, but also other colours, some in patterns. There are millions of sugar cane plants. Ripe dates are hanging in great bunches from the trees. On and on and on we go.
Finally we are on the outskirts of LUXOR. The sun has set and as we drive through the city we pass the wonderful temple, floodlit! Magic! It has taken us eight and three quarter hours to get here! Our hotel is the Sheraton, really nice. I get on with my blog for the first time in some days. As I finish and walk out, Some of our group come down the street, looking for a meal. I join in and we find a very nice restaurant. The owner shoves tables together so that ten of us are seated and we laugh and joke as we wait for our meals. Wonder of wonders, there are cooked vegetables - only my second in Egypt. The waiter laughs as one by one we each order chicken or meat "with vegetables". He's thrown when John asks for fish "with chips."
Friday, 15 January 2010
Tel Al Armana
Our rattletrap minibus grinds and graunches its way up the hill and we hop out and walk up the steps to the grave of Ahmose, the fan bearer to King Akhenaten who established his capital city, Akhetaten, here. It's in poor condition, but there's also another grave to look at before we drive down the hill to view the ruins of Akhenaten's city. After he died, the great city became a ruin in the desert. Only a few low walls of mud bricks remain. It was an anticlimax after the fabulous morning.
We crossed back over the Nile on the ferry at 4.15, along with small trucks, our police escort and their vehicle, a donkey cart and assorted humanity. I was so tired. There are cabbages growing on the river bank. As we leave the Tel Al Armana side, children talk down to us from the bank. Ruth, siting beside me says "No" in Arabic (laa) and an eight year old girl says, "You speak very good Arabic." Two schoolgirls aged about 14, gain confidence and tell us that they live in Tel Al Armana and go to school on the other side.
Boy are we hungry, with nothing much but fruit since breakfast. But nobody minds because there has been so much to see. We drive to a restaurant and Rami aranges for the tahini and bread to be served straight away. I chose chicken and rice for my meal. When it comes, it's half a chicken, so big that I was really full up. When we got on the bus again, it was 6 pm and completely dark. I fell asleep within a few minutes, brain worn out with all the day's excitements and new things to see. Woke as we arrived back at El Minya. Soccer was on; we could hear the roars. Egypt was playing Nigeria in the Africa Cup and E won. Everyone in Egypt was excited because Nigeria had knocked Egypt out of the World Cup a few weeks earlier, so this was payback time.
We crossed back over the Nile on the ferry at 4.15, along with small trucks, our police escort and their vehicle, a donkey cart and assorted humanity. I was so tired. There are cabbages growing on the river bank. As we leave the Tel Al Armana side, children talk down to us from the bank. Ruth, siting beside me says "No" in Arabic (laa) and an eight year old girl says, "You speak very good Arabic." Two schoolgirls aged about 14, gain confidence and tell us that they live in Tel Al Armana and go to school on the other side.
Boy are we hungry, with nothing much but fruit since breakfast. But nobody minds because there has been so much to see. We drive to a restaurant and Rami aranges for the tahini and bread to be served straight away. I chose chicken and rice for my meal. When it comes, it's half a chicken, so big that I was really full up. When we got on the bus again, it was 6 pm and completely dark. I fell asleep within a few minutes, brain worn out with all the day's excitements and new things to see. Woke as we arrived back at El Minya. Soccer was on; we could hear the roars. Egypt was playing Nigeria in the Africa Cup and E won. Everyone in Egypt was excited because Nigeria had knocked Egypt out of the World Cup a few weeks earlier, so this was payback time.
Heading to Tel Al Amarna
We leave Beni Hassan and head towards Tel Al Amarna. There are so many sights to see. Two men are strippng the bark off the lower part of a palm tree; one is roped to it for safety. Two boys in a canoe are fishing. One rows, the other has a bamboo pole that he plunges into the water in the hope of spearing a fish. We haven't had lunch and it's about 2 pm, so we stop in a village and Rami goes to buy bananas and oranges for all of us. The children on the road below come running over to smile and wave and pose for photos. Rami comes back with bunches of little bananas, 15cm long. He hands us two each and then two mandarines. I have just eaten the two rolls I brought from breakfast, so now I have my second course.
Another village. A market. Always donkeys, donkeys, donkeys. The blue carriaged train to Luxor passes us. Always water around too. Either we have been beside the Nile, or beside one of the large canals that service the towns, or the ditches that take water to the fields. It appears that you can plant crops in desert sand, provided you have adequate water. Yet for 83 million people, only 5 per cent of the land is tilled!
Eventually we get to the Nile ferry. It's basically (as James would say) a big flat platform that can take about six small vehicles. Think, ancient, rusty, cranking and grinding. Our policemen are still with us; they drive on board, but trusty Emad, our bus driver, must wait for us. It's only about five minutes to cross, and we walk off and climb into two minibuses that have been arranged. Children surround us, asking for money and pens. I have NEVER been in such a noisy vehicle. It sounded as if all the parts of the engine, the doors and windows, were disconnected and jolting around separately.
Another village. A market. Always donkeys, donkeys, donkeys. The blue carriaged train to Luxor passes us. Always water around too. Either we have been beside the Nile, or beside one of the large canals that service the towns, or the ditches that take water to the fields. It appears that you can plant crops in desert sand, provided you have adequate water. Yet for 83 million people, only 5 per cent of the land is tilled!
Eventually we get to the Nile ferry. It's basically (as James would say) a big flat platform that can take about six small vehicles. Think, ancient, rusty, cranking and grinding. Our policemen are still with us; they drive on board, but trusty Emad, our bus driver, must wait for us. It's only about five minutes to cross, and we walk off and climb into two minibuses that have been arranged. Children surround us, asking for money and pens. I have NEVER been in such a noisy vehicle. It sounded as if all the parts of the engine, the doors and windows, were disconnected and jolting around separately.
Beni Hassan
More excitement when we arrive at Beni Hassan. Wide stone steps lead up the hill which is a kind of mesa, like Arizona. At the top there are locked metal doors in the side of the cliff.
The boss man in his long grey-blue robe, white turban and grey scarf, unlocks the door of Amenhetep's Tomb. We have to wait a few minutes for fresh air to get inside, then in we go. I AM OVERWHELMED! I gasp, and tears come into my eyes! The tomb is a large, high rectangular room completely covered with paintings of daily life in Middle Kingdom Egypt, plus some hieroglyphic writing. At the back is a small room with a statue of the king, and smaller ones of his wife and daughter, all worn down to lumps of stone, vaguely human-shaped.
The paintings are of daily life: hunting crocodiles in the Nile, archers, wrestlers, boats full of rowers, people carrying baskets and trays of food and pails of water, the army, four men sitting at a table, two building a wall, others weighing things on scales, writing at a table, stirring pots, guiding cattle with a stick, fishing. There are war scenes, hunting, a man restringing a bow, hunting dogs, a lion attacking an antelope. IT IS AMAZING! IT IS A PRIVILEGE TO BE HERE!
We go into three other tombs, all of which blow us away. One has a man in a boat fishing, another throwing stones at swans. A hippo swimming in the river. A loaded donkey - they are rarely seen in tombs -, a man with three monkeys harvesting figs for him because a fig tree will not hold a man's weight. In the third tomb, people are being punished. One is tied and lying full length on his face while another beats him. A child is being hit on the head.
Rami says they probably didn't pay their taxes. He talks about families being responsible even today for wrong things family members do. His uncle was killed in a hit and run but someone got the number of the car. 21 days later, when the driver still could not be found, the police went and beat up the driver's brother in retribution! (I thought we were in the 21st century).
In the fourth tomb there are archers, dancing women, a man weaving a sqared carpet on a wide loom. People carry baskets on yokes. There are two men with hockey sticks. A woman is suckling a baby. A man is standing on his head. 18 cows are lined up in a row, overlapping. A man has a fish on a spear.
The boss man in his long grey-blue robe, white turban and grey scarf, unlocks the door of Amenhetep's Tomb. We have to wait a few minutes for fresh air to get inside, then in we go. I AM OVERWHELMED! I gasp, and tears come into my eyes! The tomb is a large, high rectangular room completely covered with paintings of daily life in Middle Kingdom Egypt, plus some hieroglyphic writing. At the back is a small room with a statue of the king, and smaller ones of his wife and daughter, all worn down to lumps of stone, vaguely human-shaped.
The paintings are of daily life: hunting crocodiles in the Nile, archers, wrestlers, boats full of rowers, people carrying baskets and trays of food and pails of water, the army, four men sitting at a table, two building a wall, others weighing things on scales, writing at a table, stirring pots, guiding cattle with a stick, fishing. There are war scenes, hunting, a man restringing a bow, hunting dogs, a lion attacking an antelope. IT IS AMAZING! IT IS A PRIVILEGE TO BE HERE!
We go into three other tombs, all of which blow us away. One has a man in a boat fishing, another throwing stones at swans. A hippo swimming in the river. A loaded donkey - they are rarely seen in tombs -, a man with three monkeys harvesting figs for him because a fig tree will not hold a man's weight. In the third tomb, people are being punished. One is tied and lying full length on his face while another beats him. A child is being hit on the head.
Rami says they probably didn't pay their taxes. He talks about families being responsible even today for wrong things family members do. His uncle was killed in a hit and run but someone got the number of the car. 21 days later, when the driver still could not be found, the police went and beat up the driver's brother in retribution! (I thought we were in the 21st century).
In the fourth tomb there are archers, dancing women, a man weaving a sqared carpet on a wide loom. People carry baskets on yokes. There are two men with hockey sticks. A woman is suckling a baby. A man is standing on his head. 18 cows are lined up in a row, overlapping. A man has a fish on a spear.
On the road to Beni Hassan
Left El Minya at 8am with one of our policemen aboard and the rest following us in their vehicle. The fog/smog was right down to the ground as usual.
Rami says that President Mubarak's wife Susan, is known as the mother of the nation. M has been President for 28 years and at 87 (I think) plans to go on for a long time. His brother and sister both lived to 100!
We crossed the Nile and headed south. Saw a man wearing a crash helmet - our first in Egypt. People are so friendly and helpful. Sarah went looking for a bank last night. It was shut but they opened the door to tell her they were shut. Everybody smiles and says hello and wherever we go in our bus, people smile and wave as we slow down slightly driving through the mud hut villages. We saw a cemetery with domed tombs - that means Moslems are buried there. All the tombs are rooms, big enough to house several people.
Something new today is the use of the colour turquoise. Quite a few houses have some turquoise paint - remember that up to now we haven't seen any painted houses in the villages. And one of the modes of transport is turquoise Chevrolet vehicles made in Japan which are like a ute with a cloth roof over the top. People just hop on when they need a ride and pay when they get off. It's common to find the vehicle full and four or five people riding on the step at the back. There are lots of motorbikes, some called Dayun.
In this area the houses are made of 'chalk bricks' which seems to mean they are cut out of some sort of limestone. So the houses are white instead of ordinary brick and concrete. Often there are animals in front of them, donkeys, a couple of cattle beasts, or half a dozen goats and some chickens. We have realised that the people live in the village and walk to the fields each morning, taking the animals with them. We have seen thousands of donkeys, often weighed down with burdens, or dragging overloaded carts. I really understand the poem 'The Donkey' which we learned at school. A woman is walking with a crate on her head. Another carries a gas cylinder likewise, yet another a large tray with Egyptian bread on it. A third is in black; on her head is a massive load of the greenery they cut to feed the donkeys. But actually you can't see her head at all, just this pile of greenery with a black robe below!
Rami says that President Mubarak's wife Susan, is known as the mother of the nation. M has been President for 28 years and at 87 (I think) plans to go on for a long time. His brother and sister both lived to 100!
We crossed the Nile and headed south. Saw a man wearing a crash helmet - our first in Egypt. People are so friendly and helpful. Sarah went looking for a bank last night. It was shut but they opened the door to tell her they were shut. Everybody smiles and says hello and wherever we go in our bus, people smile and wave as we slow down slightly driving through the mud hut villages. We saw a cemetery with domed tombs - that means Moslems are buried there. All the tombs are rooms, big enough to house several people.
Something new today is the use of the colour turquoise. Quite a few houses have some turquoise paint - remember that up to now we haven't seen any painted houses in the villages. And one of the modes of transport is turquoise Chevrolet vehicles made in Japan which are like a ute with a cloth roof over the top. People just hop on when they need a ride and pay when they get off. It's common to find the vehicle full and four or five people riding on the step at the back. There are lots of motorbikes, some called Dayun.
In this area the houses are made of 'chalk bricks' which seems to mean they are cut out of some sort of limestone. So the houses are white instead of ordinary brick and concrete. Often there are animals in front of them, donkeys, a couple of cattle beasts, or half a dozen goats and some chickens. We have realised that the people live in the village and walk to the fields each morning, taking the animals with them. We have seen thousands of donkeys, often weighed down with burdens, or dragging overloaded carts. I really understand the poem 'The Donkey' which we learned at school. A woman is walking with a crate on her head. Another carries a gas cylinder likewise, yet another a large tray with Egyptian bread on it. A third is in black; on her head is a massive load of the greenery they cut to feed the donkeys. But actually you can't see her head at all, just this pile of greenery with a black robe below!
El Minya
Not many tourists come here. We are at a very basic hotel because that is the only option. Jane, Lynley, Grace and I decide to go and investigate the supermarket around the corner. But when we get to the gate, we are told we must have an escort if we go out into the street. There doesn't seem to be any reason other than a nice little old man in a woolly navy jersey and beanie hat (called Muhammad) is employed to do this job. So we pop round the corner and explore the small shop. I buy slices of cheese and some biscuits for emergency rations. A young Egyptian man with a woman says, "This is my wife. Isn't she beautiful." We agree. By the time we get back the sun has set, but it's not dark as that takes about an hour.
Thursday, 14 January 2010
Traffic Jam
We are on a road that is quite narrow, having left the desert highway. It's blocked with traffic so our police escort turns on the siren. All hell breaks out as the police charge ahead. But before our bus can follow, a truck cuts in between us and the police. They are NOT happy. There are two lanes of vehicles going our way and one coming towards us. Eventually there are NONE coming towards us because the vehicles going our way have forced them to stop. We get through. We smile and wave to all the people who have been held up, including some on donkeys, and they all laugh except one, who does the fingers (after the police have gone past.)
Still heading for El Lahun
At 10.30 the police vehicle stops. We both backup and turn left past a massive cartload of what looks like corn stalks, but may be sugar cane. There's a man on top, just outside my bus window. I hold up my camera and ask (with my eyes) "Can I take your photo?" He nods, I take, he smiles, I do the thumbs up.We wobble on down this narrow dusty road, heading straight across the desert. And we are there at last! Our police get out of their vehicle. The two big bosses accompany us and the other four are detailed to spread out on high ground and survey the desert which completely surrounds what we have come to see.
It's a pyramid made of mud bricks, a very irregular shape, but huge - probably as high as the Great Pyramid in Cairo. It is so exciting to be here, visiting something that few people ever see. It's about 4000 years old. All the outer covering has long gone. There's a few robed Egyptian men, a shelter and two motorbikes. Around the pyramid are the tops of stone pillars. We move around clockwise, to see the entrance hole to the burial chamber, which is in the ground well away from the pyramid. There are 4000 year old bricks made of mud and straw. Sometimes these were dried in the sun, and sometimes baked in an oven. Round the back are eight square structures with flat tops called mastaba - these are tombs.I talk to a couple of the soldiers and say thanks for looking after us. He asks me what job my husband does and how old my children are.
And we're off, retracing our tracks back to the nearest small town where we go to a big restaurant, light and airy with a very high ceiling. The choice is chicken or meat. i choose chicken and what comes is a large tray. On it is a lump of chicken, the best rice I have ever tasted, a plate of tahini, a plate of Egyptian bread which I think is baked on top of a stove (to dip into the tahini), a soup plate of green peas and bits of other veg in a sauce. This is a dinner, not a lunch. A bottle of water comes with it. It is delicious, the best meal I have had in Egypt so far. (But the toilet is something to forget!)
Outside the restaurant are several amazing white structures which are dove cotes. They are about 3 metres high and come from the days when people bred pigeons as food.
It's a pyramid made of mud bricks, a very irregular shape, but huge - probably as high as the Great Pyramid in Cairo. It is so exciting to be here, visiting something that few people ever see. It's about 4000 years old. All the outer covering has long gone. There's a few robed Egyptian men, a shelter and two motorbikes. Around the pyramid are the tops of stone pillars. We move around clockwise, to see the entrance hole to the burial chamber, which is in the ground well away from the pyramid. There are 4000 year old bricks made of mud and straw. Sometimes these were dried in the sun, and sometimes baked in an oven. Round the back are eight square structures with flat tops called mastaba - these are tombs.I talk to a couple of the soldiers and say thanks for looking after us. He asks me what job my husband does and how old my children are.
And we're off, retracing our tracks back to the nearest small town where we go to a big restaurant, light and airy with a very high ceiling. The choice is chicken or meat. i choose chicken and what comes is a large tray. On it is a lump of chicken, the best rice I have ever tasted, a plate of tahini, a plate of Egyptian bread which I think is baked on top of a stove (to dip into the tahini), a soup plate of green peas and bits of other veg in a sauce. This is a dinner, not a lunch. A bottle of water comes with it. It is delicious, the best meal I have had in Egypt so far. (But the toilet is something to forget!)
Outside the restaurant are several amazing white structures which are dove cotes. They are about 3 metres high and come from the days when people bred pigeons as food.
Out into Egypt
We left at 8.30 sharp and headed onto the 'great road south' passing the pyramids on our left, a military camp, large cream apartment blocks on the right - looking so much cleaner than the ubiquitous brick and concrete ones we have seen everywhere. The area is named 'Sixth of October' after the start date of the six day Egypt-Israel war in 1973. It has recently been designated a province ie no longer part of Cairo. This was truly the desert. Very little traffic. We cruised along with our police escort, which is required for all buses going south. Said escort vehicle was a small van with an open back; two men in the front and four in the back, wearing khaki uniforms. We were on the road to El Fayun, which is not a normal tourist site.
Nothing but desert once we were out of Cairo. Nice to have no heavy traffic. We cruised along, passing a cemetery consisting of small buildings about the size of a room in a house. Only the men attend funerals in Egypt. The highway was two lanes each way, with a dirt strip in between. The sun was trying to get through the smog. We passed a walled compound with palms and other trees planted in rows, the 'Arabian Nights' Resort and lots of factories and houses. Then total cultivation. Cattle, some water buffaloes, a goat, fields of greenery about 50 cm high.
Our NZ guide, Sarah, asks us to make sure we have information put inour graves on acid-free paper, laminated, so the archaeologists of the future will have no trouble finding out who and what we were. She says Spike Milligan's idea was to beburied in a washing machine so archaeologits would be really challenged to come up with reasons. Sarah says she was on a dig in Israel and found "a bloke with very long legs." At first she thought she had proof that there were some very tall people then, but it was just his legs. Another quote fromSarah. "Agatha Christie was married to anarchaeologist; she said that every woman should do this - as you get older they find you more interesting!"
Onwe go, following a small river on our right. Animals, animal shelters and crops. Bikes galore. A squatting woman is selling onions as we pass through a small settlement. People don't live on farms; they live in villages and walk to the village fields to work there, leading or driving their animals - cattle, goats and sheep. By each lot of fields there is a muddy ditch. Heaven knows what bugs and beasties are in it, but the Egyptians are apparently born with immunity to nasties that would lay us low. Some of the houses are mud bricks.
Nothing but desert once we were out of Cairo. Nice to have no heavy traffic. We cruised along, passing a cemetery consisting of small buildings about the size of a room in a house. Only the men attend funerals in Egypt. The highway was two lanes each way, with a dirt strip in between. The sun was trying to get through the smog. We passed a walled compound with palms and other trees planted in rows, the 'Arabian Nights' Resort and lots of factories and houses. Then total cultivation. Cattle, some water buffaloes, a goat, fields of greenery about 50 cm high.
Our NZ guide, Sarah, asks us to make sure we have information put inour graves on acid-free paper, laminated, so the archaeologists of the future will have no trouble finding out who and what we were. She says Spike Milligan's idea was to beburied in a washing machine so archaeologits would be really challenged to come up with reasons. Sarah says she was on a dig in Israel and found "a bloke with very long legs." At first she thought she had proof that there were some very tall people then, but it was just his legs. Another quote fromSarah. "Agatha Christie was married to anarchaeologist; she said that every woman should do this - as you get older they find you more interesting!"
Onwe go, following a small river on our right. Animals, animal shelters and crops. Bikes galore. A squatting woman is selling onions as we pass through a small settlement. People don't live on farms; they live in villages and walk to the village fields to work there, leading or driving their animals - cattle, goats and sheep. By each lot of fields there is a muddy ditch. Heaven knows what bugs and beasties are in it, but the Egyptians are apparently born with immunity to nasties that would lay us low. Some of the houses are mud bricks.
Wednesday, 13 January 2010
The Citadel and the traffic
On our free day, 11 of us caught the hotel bus to the middle of Cairo. One of our group had arranged for taxis to meet us there and drive us around for the whole day. The cost was 200 Egyptian pounds, which is 50 NZ dollars, so only $12.50 each, with four per taxi.
The first stop was the Citadel, founded in 1176 by Saladdin. Inside this mighty fort with its high walls and massive towers, there were two special mosques. The first was built 1294-1340. The other one, four times the size, was 19th century, with wonderful decorated domes soaring above. I liked the sign that said,"Please do not put your shoes on the carpet." A clock in the yard was a gift from King Louis Philippe of France, in exchange for the obelisk which is in the Place de la Concorde in Paris. It has never worked!
I took photos of the city below, bathed in pollution, before we dashed down to the gate - our taxis were due back at 12.30 and we had to be on time because they were not officially allowed to stop there. Off we set into the traffic. It is amazing. There are no traffic lights in Cairo and as a result, the traffic flows unceasingly, with everybody ducking and diving, easing into spaces you wouldn't believe, sounding their horns. We didn't see any accidents.
Next we went into the Coptic Christian area and looked at some old churches.Coptic Christians are a very small minority but there is no strife with Moslems. In the church of St George, a woman was praying while she held her hand against a large metal icon of the saint. Next door was a large ruined Roman Tower made of white and brown bricks. Then came the hanging church (Coptic), so called because it was built on top of the old Roman fort. It was full of Christmas decorations, balloons, posters in Arabic wishing "Merry Christmas" and "Happy 2010". There were mosaic pictures, beautiful embroideries on velvet and a complicated wooden screen across the front.
After that we went to a restaurant for lunch and were finally delivered back to the parking place under the bridge, to catch the bus back to the hotel at 5pm. But we were early, so went into the Hilton Hotel for a drink.
The sun was setting as we drove off, an enormous golden orb. The traffic was very heavy. We drove and drove on a road that was four lanes wide on our side. But the traffic was six wide, because they used the shoulder and everybody was only about six inches from everybody else, which worked very well becausethe traffic wasn't moving very fast. Only about one car in ten was using its lights; Egyptians keep them off to save the battery. It was 6.15 when we got back.
Sunday, 10 January 2010
The 'Real Pyramids' and the Sphinx
Excitement, excitement! Off to the pyramids at 9.30, again in thick fog. However it 'burned off' very quickly. The shape represents the sun's rays. We were able to purchase tickets to go inside the Great Pyramid; they sell only 150 for morning and 150 for afternoon. Actually it wasn't as exciting as yesterday; much easier to manage, and just a vast empty burial chamber in the middle. The Great Pyramid was 147m high, but in ancient times 9m fell off, so now it's only as big as the second one. All the limestone has been removed from the outside, so it is just blocks of limestone, the top ones weighing 2.5 tons, the heaviest 25 tons and the average 15 tons. They brought them up the Nile, which was only 200m away from the site.
The other excitement today was seeing the Sphinx. It has a huge curling tail that curves along the side then up onto its back. We also saw the 'Solar Boat' which was found in a pit by the pyramids and has been restored. It's huge. Google it and you will see what I mean.
The other excitement today was seeing the Sphinx. It has a huge curling tail that curves along the side then up onto its back. We also saw the 'Solar Boat' which was found in a pit by the pyramids and has been restored. It's huge. Google it and you will see what I mean.
The Countryside
The whole of Egypt is dirty. There are NO rubbish collections anywhere. It hasn't rained since early December and that was only 7 minutes, so the trees are caked with dust and pollution hangs in great clouds in the sky, surrounding pyramids and covering cars. As we drove south to see the 'other' pyramids, there were goats eating rubbish by the roads, filthy, sluggish streams, thousands of palm trees being farmed (every part has a use), some large, attractive houses - some with balconies and pillars. Every house we saw in the farming areas we drove through, was unfinished. Our guide Rami said the reason is because houses are taxed once they are finished and painted. There was verdant growth - great fields of small green crops, carts full of carrots, beetroots etc for sale, cauliflowers and cabbages. Many fields had rough shelters of wood and straw, built to protect animals and humans from the harsh summer sun. Men were fishing in mucky rivers, the banks encrusted with rubbish. Chickens picked around them and mangy looking dogs ran around. We saw white herons - quite a contrast to the mess. We passed through a village where meat was hanging on a hook in the sun outside the shop.
The 'Other' Pyramids
We set off in thick fog to drive south to Saqqara to visit the Step Pyramid built for King Djoser (or Xoser) by Imhotep, the first person in the world to use stone as a building material. Saqqara was the necropolis for the great city of Memphis. It's made of several huge slabs called mastabas (platforms), each one smaller than the one below. We could only look from a distance, as it's falling down in front. Saw our first camels here. We entered through a row of columns. The top half of all of them has gone and a wooden roof has been built over the top where there was stone formerly.
I dashed around, looking down deep holes the size of a huge room, and remains of old pyramids with only some of the outer stones left. I saw a little door down a hole, and found a panel of beautifully preserved hieroglyphics. Took lots of close-ups. My own special ones - nobody else came across them.
Next stop was Dahshur, first to see the Bent Pyramid. On the way we stopped to take a guard on board. Our guide Rami explained that the guard would be wearing a suit and tie and lace up shoes, because that was the rule. But he would have a gun under his jacket for our protection.
The Bent Pyramid was built for Sneferu, father of Khufu, whose pyramid is the big one in Cairo. But when they were about 30-40 metres up, they realised the angle of the corners was wrong and it would be fantastically high. The king ordered them to change the angle and complete it, but he didn't want to be buried in something that looked so odd. So he ordered what is now called the Red Pyramid - not for its colour, but for the red drawings found inside.
Great excitement when we found that there were NO tourist buses at the Bent Pyramid! Just us and a couple of four wheel drives. Why? Because the roads are not sealed. It was marvellous. Three tourist police, one on a camel, walked with us, as did the armed guard who had travelled with us on the bus.
Next we went to the Red Pyramid. It's not red, it was named for the grafitti found inside. When we got there, we were able to go inside. Just climbed up the steps and dragged ourselves down a steep ramp inside, them up into the burial chamber. Oh my thighs! It took four days to recover, using Antiflamme morning and evening. If you want an idea of what they felt like, squat down to a crouch, tuck your head down to your knees so you don't bash it on the low ceiling, lift your heels and try to walk forward!
I dashed around, looking down deep holes the size of a huge room, and remains of old pyramids with only some of the outer stones left. I saw a little door down a hole, and found a panel of beautifully preserved hieroglyphics. Took lots of close-ups. My own special ones - nobody else came across them.
Next stop was Dahshur, first to see the Bent Pyramid. On the way we stopped to take a guard on board. Our guide Rami explained that the guard would be wearing a suit and tie and lace up shoes, because that was the rule. But he would have a gun under his jacket for our protection.
The Bent Pyramid was built for Sneferu, father of Khufu, whose pyramid is the big one in Cairo. But when they were about 30-40 metres up, they realised the angle of the corners was wrong and it would be fantastically high. The king ordered them to change the angle and complete it, but he didn't want to be buried in something that looked so odd. So he ordered what is now called the Red Pyramid - not for its colour, but for the red drawings found inside.
Great excitement when we found that there were NO tourist buses at the Bent Pyramid! Just us and a couple of four wheel drives. Why? Because the roads are not sealed. It was marvellous. Three tourist police, one on a camel, walked with us, as did the armed guard who had travelled with us on the bus.
Next we went to the Red Pyramid. It's not red, it was named for the grafitti found inside. When we got there, we were able to go inside. Just climbed up the steps and dragged ourselves down a steep ramp inside, them up into the burial chamber. Oh my thighs! It took four days to recover, using Antiflamme morning and evening. If you want an idea of what they felt like, squat down to a crouch, tuck your head down to your knees so you don't bash it on the low ceiling, lift your heels and try to walk forward!
Sound and Light
Wrapped up well against the evening desert cold, we took our seats for the sound and light show, English edition. There in front of us was the Sphinx, with the three pyramids in the distance behind it. WOW! Am I really here, I asked myself. The show was a description of the building of the pyramids and the kings who they were for, with holographs and pictures projected on some old ruins to the left of the sphinx and great beams of light streaking across the desert to be projected on the pyramid they were talking about or the sphinx.
Friday, 8 January 2010
The Egyptian Museum
After a great 10 hours sleep, we set off to the Egyptian Museum on Thursday morning, Christmas Day. That's not a mistake - Coptic Christians celebrate Christmas on 7 Jan. We spent the morning with our Egyptian guide, Rami, leading us around some of the most exciting items in the museum. Rami is 6 foot 4, with a purple jersey and curly hair. His English is fluent, so a great asset. He will travel with us all over Egypt.
The museum is arranged in chronological order: Old Kingdom, Middle Kingdom and then New Kingdom. The highlight was of course the tomb of Tutankhamen, You get to the top of the stairs and there is the largest, outside gold shrine, followed by the next two smaller ones. Then in a side room are the two gold coffins, and the most special treasures. The gold and blue head/mask is superb, as is the throne. Did you ever notice that where you would lean back against the throne, T is wearing a left sandal and his wife has the right one, symbolising their belonging together. On the back of the throne (behind it) are four blue cobras.
You just can't imagine how much stuff was in the tomb, even if you've read about it. Two black statues with gold skirts, four high beds about shoulder height, four low beds, one folding up in case he wanted to take it hunting in the after death world. Sandals, socks, gloves, bows and arrows, walking sticks with carved handles, pieces of cloth, Alabaster canopic jars, inlaid chests, chairs, stools, boxes, necklaces, 360 small servant figurines to help him through each year, with larger ones to be the supervisors.
I spent half the afternoon looking at it all and then went back into the general section where much of the 'stuff' is still in ancient locked cupboards, including lots of mummies in their painted sarcophaguses (or is that sarcophagi?). Also model boats with clay crews, models of houses, huge statues, or parts thereof. There's a separate exhibition within the museum, of Royal Mummies. I went in, but felt it was a desecration for them to have become objects to stare at. The heads, hands and feet were revealed but the bodies were still wrapped in cloth. There's something uncomfortable at staring down at the remains of Rameses II.
Hoping to find the time to add a few photos next time I blog, but right now must sign off as we're going to the 'Sound and Light' show at the pyramids.
The museum is arranged in chronological order: Old Kingdom, Middle Kingdom and then New Kingdom. The highlight was of course the tomb of Tutankhamen, You get to the top of the stairs and there is the largest, outside gold shrine, followed by the next two smaller ones. Then in a side room are the two gold coffins, and the most special treasures. The gold and blue head/mask is superb, as is the throne. Did you ever notice that where you would lean back against the throne, T is wearing a left sandal and his wife has the right one, symbolising their belonging together. On the back of the throne (behind it) are four blue cobras.
You just can't imagine how much stuff was in the tomb, even if you've read about it. Two black statues with gold skirts, four high beds about shoulder height, four low beds, one folding up in case he wanted to take it hunting in the after death world. Sandals, socks, gloves, bows and arrows, walking sticks with carved handles, pieces of cloth, Alabaster canopic jars, inlaid chests, chairs, stools, boxes, necklaces, 360 small servant figurines to help him through each year, with larger ones to be the supervisors.
I spent half the afternoon looking at it all and then went back into the general section where much of the 'stuff' is still in ancient locked cupboards, including lots of mummies in their painted sarcophaguses (or is that sarcophagi?). Also model boats with clay crews, models of houses, huge statues, or parts thereof. There's a separate exhibition within the museum, of Royal Mummies. I went in, but felt it was a desecration for them to have become objects to stare at. The heads, hands and feet were revealed but the bodies were still wrapped in cloth. There's something uncomfortable at staring down at the remains of Rameses II.
Hoping to find the time to add a few photos next time I blog, but right now must sign off as we're going to the 'Sound and Light' show at the pyramids.
A 35 hour day
Set off on my great Egypt adventure at 9 am Tuesday morning. One hour to Auckland. Leave 4 hours later, fly to Singapore. Arrive there in darkness, leave 4 hours later. Arrive in Dubai. Stay on the plane in Transit for an hour and a half. Arrive Cairo 6 am. Exhilaration! Soon the sun came up. I had been in darkness for 23 hours! Now that feels very peculiar.
We were met by the tour guide and with few people in the airport, moved through quite fast. By 7.15 we were out of the airport and driving along new roads through a huge bulldozed area. I would say between 10 and 20 sq km, with lots of new palm trees just planted. Some of it was airport extension but I couldn't work out what the rest was for. The blue road signs were in Arabic and English. The sun was just coming up over the horizon, a huge orange orb. We were on the ring road and we were heading for our hotel in Giza. The high tower of a small mosque was gleaming in the early sun. There were thousands (yes I mean it) of housing blocks, many still being built, others obviously lived in, but concrete reinforcing rods sticking out of the top. Found out later that people build like this, then add another storey when they can afford it or when there are more family members.
Saw a small truck with a whole family's goods piled on it 4m high, much of the furniture wrapped in gaudy striped blankets. The top one moved, and a woman was under it on top of the pile. Suddenly our Egyptian guide Sayed said, "Here's the Nile" and I banged off a photo as we crossed the bridge. By now there was a thick haze of pollution as the highrises continued. The population is 18 million - that's Cairo, not Egypt - and it's estimated that a further 3 million come into Cairo to work every day. There are 3 million cars, so take a deep breath and imagine just how big the city is. Work is from 8 am to 3 pm, so that's when the rush hour home starts.
Suddenly Sayed said, "There are the pyramids." WOW! For real! Looming up on our left out of the grey murk. Soon we were at our hotel, which is in Giza. It's called the Oasis, and the whole place is laid out in one story motel-style buildings joined together in rows of eight. The grounds are full of huge palm trees, succulent plants, grassy areas and trees shaped like large iceblocks.
We were met by the tour guide and with few people in the airport, moved through quite fast. By 7.15 we were out of the airport and driving along new roads through a huge bulldozed area. I would say between 10 and 20 sq km, with lots of new palm trees just planted. Some of it was airport extension but I couldn't work out what the rest was for. The blue road signs were in Arabic and English. The sun was just coming up over the horizon, a huge orange orb. We were on the ring road and we were heading for our hotel in Giza. The high tower of a small mosque was gleaming in the early sun. There were thousands (yes I mean it) of housing blocks, many still being built, others obviously lived in, but concrete reinforcing rods sticking out of the top. Found out later that people build like this, then add another storey when they can afford it or when there are more family members.
Saw a small truck with a whole family's goods piled on it 4m high, much of the furniture wrapped in gaudy striped blankets. The top one moved, and a woman was under it on top of the pile. Suddenly our Egyptian guide Sayed said, "Here's the Nile" and I banged off a photo as we crossed the bridge. By now there was a thick haze of pollution as the highrises continued. The population is 18 million - that's Cairo, not Egypt - and it's estimated that a further 3 million come into Cairo to work every day. There are 3 million cars, so take a deep breath and imagine just how big the city is. Work is from 8 am to 3 pm, so that's when the rush hour home starts.
Suddenly Sayed said, "There are the pyramids." WOW! For real! Looming up on our left out of the grey murk. Soon we were at our hotel, which is in Giza. It's called the Oasis, and the whole place is laid out in one story motel-style buildings joined together in rows of eight. The grounds are full of huge palm trees, succulent plants, grassy areas and trees shaped like large iceblocks.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)